Why should I be not using Titebond lll

[thefishinmusician]

It has a longer working time and it says it's stronger..Dis- Advantages??

[Tom Krebs]

To be not or not to be not... that is the question :) Just kidding.

It won't melt into itself during future repairs.

[Russell Vance]

Ah, having been around this buoy a few times....Titebond III has the highest creep of the Titebond series and, from memory has a high solids ratio. Both these things are unattractive (I use Titebond II and Titebond but not III) for general luthiery in my opinion and the opinion of the crew at TB. The Titebond people are very responsive and will give you a comprehensive personal answer if you ask them via their website. But, it is very good if you are gluing up outdoor furniture or boats etc. Rusty.

[Donald A. Fortune]

Ive tryed titebond III and its perfict if you are using it outside because its watter proof which makes it a poor choise for guitar building... titebond II is a better choise or hyde glue is also acceptable.
good luck and be safe....
Donald

[Bob Webster]

I'll echo Russell's comments and add that it leaves a thicker and more obvious glue line than the others. More of a pain to clean up, also.

Bob

[Nick Anthony]

i thnk tite bond II is water proof too isnt it...??

[Donald A. Fortune]

Hi Nick-- titebond II is water resestant however for all intential perposes you are correct and I made the mistake of not noting that in the first place--
I use a glue thats made for the cabinet industry and it is in no way water resistant or water proof-- it also comes apart when a heat iron is applyed to it--sets up in 15min.
please except my goof e1 and be well
Donald

[Bruce Herrmann]

Yes, Titebond II is waterproof but only mildly compared to III. I think one of the main reasons people use III is that it
is a waterproof glue. It dries a different color, II dries lighter in color than III. I don't think III is an ideal glue for our work,
if I was going to use an aliphatic resin, I'd stick with I or II.
A little off topic and tell me if it's been covered before, has anyone used Titebond's Polyurethane glue? I just wonder if
it's any less difficult to clean up or if it bubbles up any less. I'm not concerned about it for projects involving instruments, just general repairs that might see outdoor use. I've read studies that show some pretty impressive results in uses that
require good resistance to moisture. They recommend the water-spray prior to gluing to be done 5 minutes before the glue is applied....
Bruce

[Eddie Bax]

I'd stay away from polyurethane glue for luthiery. The only application I use it for (because of its long open time) is laminating plies of bending poplar into table skirts and round picture frames. I've had joints under tension pop open when I've used it, and with the foaming action (the stuff is the same as that aerosol insulation you buy at the Home center in cans) it's a real pain to clean up.

Polyurethane glue has its place, but not in a luthier's shop.

[FRANK]

never used it. but tight bond two or even #1 always worked for me and if it is a good thing why change it ?

[Dave Fox]

I prefer titebond original, and second choice is Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. Both of which dry very brittle. I have never had any creep with either of them. Third choice is granulated hide. I DON'T like the titebond II or, even worse.... titebond III. I find them waaaaaay to flexible.

I have used the Gorilla polyurethane glue, though I don't prefer it for instruments. Personal experience says: The joint must be PERFECT for there to be a good strong glue joint. Anything less than perfect mean there is gap space regardless how minute. The P/U glues react with moisture in the air, and WILL foam up any gaps to fill joints. I don't want my instruments held together by FOAM.

FWIW, YMMV.

Dave Fox
Hog Fiddles and Such
-Handcrafted banjos, dulcimers, and mandolins
-Repairs
-Shelter for unwanted, orphaned, and abused instruments

[Rob]

Yes I glued a EL' Dagas guitar neck that was broke right off at a field party I was told with good old Gorilla glue and its still like the day Iglued it four years later. You have to use it sparingly as their is a expansion factor with it so then your dealing with seepage for a lack of a better word. Clamped it for twenty four hours just to be on tha safe side but its never moved a mili-inch since day one. The good thing about this little gem is that it cost me $2.00 at a yard sale.-Rob

[thefishinmusician]

Too hard to clean up...turns your fingeras brown.....Fantastic strength!!..Might reconsider...Did gorrilla glue a plug of wood to a piece of plywood once...tried to make it come off.....Jumped on it , beat on it....the wood came out of ply...But that happens on cheap accoustics,,,,Thats one reason I epoxy cheap accoustic bridges...Easy clean up and a 95% percent rate of sucess...