Search Results - Micarta
- Topic: What kind of saddle should use with a piezo pickup
- ing with a synthetic saddle over a bone saddle? I need to have the instrument plugged in, and I use only the under-the-saddle pick to avoid feedback. Thanks.…
- Added by Gordon Scott at 5:31pm on June 3, 2015
- Comment on: Topic 'Refretting a Micarta Fingerboard'
- nd they came out easily with no chips or tearing - the slots were basically perfect afterwards. I did tighten the truss rod about a half turn past flat before I pulled the frets, but I'm not sure how much that helped. I used 150 grit sandpaper to level the fingerboard, and then used 220 and 320 grit sandpaper to smooth out the board. It looked perfect afterwards and was very easy to true. It even seemed better than new as it had a more ebony look after sanding. I used Jescar EVO gold 080"x.037" frets with a .019 tang. I read about a few Micarta fingerboard guitars having backbow and had a suggestion to cut the slots .005" over the tang size, so I used a .025" razor saw to clean the frets. However, hardly any material if any was removed from the fret slots, so the slots seem to have already been .025" wide. I hammered the frets in without any issue, and none of them popped back up. I did not glue the frets in, which maybe was a mistake, but we'll see. I leveled the frets with 600 grit sandpaper and then polished them with micro mesh. I didn't mask the fingerboard when I did this, and it looked perfect after the micro mesh. I made a new nut and set up the guitar with 7/64th low E and 5/64ths high e string at the 12th fret and it played fine without buzzing after. This fret job seemed quite easy to me. I guess I didn't figure out how the Micarta would react to heat though - but it seems like Martin may not glue the frets in. Thank you again for the tips!…
- Added by TKW at 9:19pm on May 30, 2017
- Comment on: Topic 'What Glue for a Richlite Bridge to a Martin HPL Top?'
- course, there's no tension there. I remember the drill filings were a lot like plastic though. I wonder if I need special epoxy for this bridge. I must say that the gluing job the Martin factory did in Mexico on this bridge left a LOT to be desired! Happy New Year! Enis…
- Added by Enis Moran at 2:48pm on December 30, 2010
- Comment on: Topic 'MICARTA?'
- bility generally indicates a deadening of sound. In my last visit to the Martin factory, I was stunned when the guided tour began in a large room where they were putting together guitars with formica (?) backs and sides with aluminum tops. Aluminum is acoustically sound, but quite cold to the touch. Explanations went the route of a growing scarcity of woods. The resultant sound was not pleasing to the ear. Most guitar factories' bottom line seems to be profit as cheaper materials are hyped as improvements at the actual expense of structural integrity.…
- Added by John D. Oakes at 5:15pm on October 4, 2009
- Topic: Corian Saddle
- him a new saddle in the first place. Upon inspection, he already wore a pretty deep 'seat' into the saddle. This is why he was breaking strings already; he's a hard strummer. I sanded out the nicks, and I've asked him to ease up on the strumming but, has anyone else experienced this with Corian? My saddles usually are good for a year before we have string break problems due to wear. Break angle, etc are fine.…
- Added by Christian Johnson at 5:12pm on November 4, 2009
- Comment on: Topic '1968 D-18 Martin Specs'
- h, and the depth was variable. At that time, bridges were made in three thicknesses, 1/4. 5/16, 3/8, and the appropriate bridge was selected to accommodate the neck angle. Each bridge would have a different depth of saddle slot, of course. Compensation was determined by the position of the bridge - saddles were not carved to achieve any degree of compensation. Any error in intonation is typically an error in placement of the bridge. That era was also a transitional time for nut and saddle material. Ivory, Micarta, ivory, and white plastic were used in the 1960s, although not in that order. The saddle was short, set in a blind-end routed slot as today's are. The "through-cut" saddle ended earlier in the 1960s.…
- Added by Frank Ford at 9:42pm on November 11, 2009
- Comment on: Topic 'MICARTA?'
- g the instrument to its owner without having corrected the lifting or warped bridge (it was not a fret job). I research each instrument before working on it in order to gain advanced warnings of inferior materials or constructions, a practice which protects both instrument and luthier from unwelcome 'surprises'. The internet is useful for this research. If I cannot significantly improve an instrument without undue expense to the owner by having to re-manufacture parts, then it is simply returned. I didn't study the art of instrument building and repair just to deal with plastic replacement parts or try to fill in all the corners that were cut.…
- Added by John D. Oakes at 10:59pm on February 17, 2012
- Comment on: Topic '"Backset" AC saddle?'
- for a nylon electric I had to buy an expensive synth to run it through. I'm not recommending you get rid of your guitar because all guitars are different and you may like the sound you are getting. If you've got the tools for working a material like bone or micarta I'd say try the backset saddle. In fact, I may try that on my Martin acoustic which has slight intonation problems. It takes time to do intonation correction which is trial and error, but bad intonation hurts more than stubbing your bare toe on a table leg. Good luck, and take it slow. You might have something there.…
- Added by Michael Breid at 1:18pm on March 11, 2009
- Topic: Gibson Electric Neck problem.
- , but I've tried the next heavier gauge up in strings...to no avail. I'm looking at pulling the frets, ...set some back bow with the rod engaged....then milling flat the fretboard, and re-fretting. My question is ( the fretboard material is Richlite) , what might I encounter when pulling frets on one of these "plastic" fretboards? How's the chipping out...and what is the holding factor going back in. I had one guitar previously that I had to epoxy in the frets, and that was horrible, I never want to do that again. Anyone been down this road...I'm guessing that Martin is doing the same thing for some time now, with the Micarta, which maybe is the same situation? Michael…
- Added by Michael Tulloch at 9:29am on August 10, 2013
- Comment on: Topic 'MICARTA?'
- material that's currently being offered for instrument builders and repairs. I am impressed with its acoustic properties: (when dropped, it makes a "plink" -like crystal being tapped), although I would also like to know more about it. In all fairness, one must also note that most exotic woods are toxic in one way or another. I've heard players complain that ebony hurts their fingers. As a veteran environmentalist, I am concerned about the possible presence of formaldehyde in micarta and would like to know if, in fact, this has been phased out...wondering how it ever got 'phased in' without safety testing. Of all the petitions I've seen (and signed) about saving the old forests, I rarely read of efforts to plant or replant trees. Hopefully this is happening. (good news always travels more slowly than bad).…
- Added by John D. Oakes at 6:13pm on October 4, 2009
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