truss rod position

[Micha Schellhaas]

Hi,

I'm back with a question, this time about the truss rod position.

It's for a set neck Les Paul style guitar.  I was wondering how much the adjustment nut has to be back in the channel. Also, does anybody know where to get the right tool to counterbore the area of the adjustment nut, since the nut is slightly wider than the channel?

[Russell Vance]

Hi Brian,

It remains exactly as it was, but, this forum is a dynamic place and things change - in this case a number of the main (usual suspects) contributors expressed their opinions as to what the forum purpose and Charter was and what they were prepared to support or not support.   This did not involve anything other than one particular issue which had gone on too long at a level that was felt to be inappropriate.

Nobody like "no" and not everyone is a diplomat - but the way this forum operates is exceptional because it's a rare exception  for anybody to have a major dummy spit or resort to personal invective.  This is not a place where insult and anger is countenanced - any disagreement is usually addressed  "off forum" by private message or request for mediation.  The mediator will step in if it's way out of line, but generally lets us play by ourselves and resolve things locally.

It's a good place.

Rusty. 

[Russell Vance]

Micha,

This is on of my older builds which used the Hot Rod.  To solve your problem is simple:  select a "nut" sized drill, an "aircraft" or long drill is best but a standard length drill bit may work at a pinch if you chuck it with a minimum of shank and simply follow the channel into the neck using the bottom of the existing channel as a guide.  Bore into the truss rod slot until the nut on the rod is aligned as pictured with an enlarged cylindrical bore from the slightly bigger drill.

In other words, if this is not clear:  the hand held power drill should come into the slot  from where the channel exits the peghead.   The way I used to put them in was to gig the neck in a pedestal drill and come down into the neck to meet the truss rod slot.  This "blind" drilling was a bit off work but it was strong where it needed to be. 

I don't use the hot rods any more because the LMI/Allied Lutherie rods are next-gen, shallower and more suited to our particular purpose.  The latest stainless steel rods from Allied look pretty good as well.   Where we are at present in our production guitars is also imaged FYI.

Rusty

[Micha Schellhaas]

Thanks Rusty !!!

for this one I will go with the Hot Rod since I routed the slot to correct depth. Your pictures look awesome and that's a great and clean method. Next one I will go with the Allied rods. Thanks again for the answer!