Regluing pickguard over lacquer finish

[Gordon Rush]

I'm working on a 1964 Gibson acoustic guitar (I think it's a B-25) that was stored in a barn for many years. What is the right glue to use to reattach the pickguard? Acetone melts the finish immediately.

[eliya]

On some partially loose guards that are not shrinking or curling, I have worked some hot hide glue into the loose areas and clamp with an inner and outer caul, and that also works fine, as the guard normally ends up with fine wood fibers attached to it that the glue will adhere to.

I was wondering if anyone else had success doing that? I have a Goya T-16 with a pickguard (very thick one, too) that is partially loose. Removing it only to reglue the guard back down sounds like creating more work than necessary. My first idea was to get some hide glue under the loosened part, clamp it, and call it a day. Any reason why I shouldn't do it?

[Gordon Rush]

There is a pretty dramatic color difference between where the pickguard was and the rest of the top. It's not my guitar -- and the job is just a favor anyway. It's going to get its old pickguard back.

For alignment I'm going to lay several bamboo skewers on the top where the pickguard is going to go. Then I'm going to lay the sticky pickguard over the skewers, and starting in the center, I'll pull the skewers out and start sticking the pickguard down as I go. Sort of like a technique I saw Norm Abram use on a larger scale on a countertop a long time ago.

[Gordon Rush]

Someone may have cleaned it up before I got it. No screws on the pickguard. The bridge is held on with screws at each end of the saddle though. There are threaded inserts in the top. The saddle is ceramic, which I've never seen before. Interesting guitar.

[Jon Hiltbrand]

I used to have a 1964 B25.  It also had an adjustable ceramic saddle that was about 1/4" wide.  If I still had it today I would plug that in a minute and recut a new, normal saddle slot.  My bridge wasn't bolted though...  Does yours have the hollow plastic bridge or is it wood?  I think they switched from wood to plastic in late '64 or early '65.

I reattached the pickguard using adhesive sheets.  Someone had partially reattached it with CA before I bought it.  Don't do that!!!  It was only one edge, but it was not fun to get loose without destroying both top and pickguard.  These pickguards are semi-transparent also, so you could see little glue puddles around the edge where they squirted it under.

I've played a TON of these things and the good ones sound and play great.  I've been disappointed by a fair number of them too.  Many of them had very, very narrow necks that I did not enjoy

[Jon Hiltbrand]

Just wanted to clarify that I wasn't knocking your guitar at the end of the last post, just pointing out that they were very inconsistent during this time.  I loved the one I had. Wish I still had it.

[Ned Knepp]

John, I don't know that Gordon is still around since this thread dates from 2009.  I guessing you got fooled by Eliya's new comments on an old thread.

Eliya, At this point in time it's usually better to open a new thread which might reference this one. One of the nice things about HHG is that is pretty reversable. If it doesn't work you can clean out the HHG fairly easily. If it's over a finish, I think I would got ahead and remove the pick guard completely. The old glue is already failing and there's a good chance it will continue to do so. 

[eliya]

Thanks Ned. I guess removing and reattaching it wouldn't be too much work. I just don't have those sheets handy and wanted to get started on the repair.

I didn't start a new thread is because I like reviving old threads that are relevant. This way all the information is gathered in one place. However, the way ning is set up, it can be a little difficult to follow threads and know exactly which comment was made last.

[Ned Knepp]

Yeah, I understand about wanting to keep information together but, as you see, the conversations get muddled and it's hard to keep it all straight. 

Another thing that often happens is that someone will amend an old thread with something that seems to be on the same subject but it will end up being different as answers come in. 

Opening new threads all the time makes the number of threads higher but it also helps keep the threads focused which, I think, makes them easier to find and easier to use as a resource when I want to focus on a certain subject. 

[vince sauter]

i was recently given the same gibson b25 and the pick guard came of . the difference is that i could see white glue residue that cleaned off easily but the finish under it is checked from age and some of it has liffted off. should i do something to this finish to stabilize it before i reglue. from what i have read gibson always used lacquer finish.
thanks vince

[Robbie Collins]

Heat Gun Caveat: The Porter-Cable PC1500HG heat gun has 2-settings and a variable rheostat. . On Setting 1 it goes from 120°F to 900°F at 10CFM.  On Setting 2, from 130°F to 1350°F at 16 CFM.  I have one and I used an infrared thermometer and a Sharpie to calibrate and mark settings for various tasks.

[RETROROD]

I will vouch and vote for the 3M sheets from StewMac. Very easy. Works a treat!