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So I have this parlor from the early 1900's that needs a reset but the joint is full mortise a la violin family. Any thoughts about how to separate this type of joint. I've included photos of the guitar in question as well as photos of another, which has the same joint, but was apart when I got it, for obvious reasons. I was thinking of removing some wood from the end of the neck so that I can get some steam in there, Maybe drilling a slot between the neck and headblock? Anyone with suggestions would be welcome and appreciated.

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can you drill 2 s holes through the finger board to put a s needle through to steam it ?
can you give us a full view of the instrument it seams to close for my eyes
Hey Paul. I've already removed the fingerboard from the twelfth fret to the soundhole as you can see in the photos so I have access to the whole joint on top. The issue is theres no space around the joint anywhere for steam to penetrate.
drill 1/16th holes 2 of them 1 inch apart right in into the pocket and steam it with a needle from a basket ball pump you removed the finger board all ready do you plan to replace it also ?
as soon as the finger board is replaced you wont see the holes
Paul, I don't think your looking at the photos. This is not a standard dovetail joint. The full dimensions of the neck heel are mortised into the headblock in the same way as a violin. The real problem is that there is no room around the joint to inject steam into.
Eric I under stand that its a cello Joint you will need to make the holes your self and steam it off not to much steam if you have a iron or and heating blanket this would be help full moving to photo 1 drill 2 holes when steam pops out of hole 2 pull pull it can help as well heat steam pressure making sure to heat it well steam it well for at least 20 to 30 minutes before pulling heat steam pressure your ok Eric I do understand what joint it is its easy just relax and follow the instruction and or what until others chime in for a mix of ideas
Eric the way I remove a violin neck I will take a very thin spachal and heat it and work it down the front edge of the joint to give you some place for the water to sit and heat the heal of the whole neck with the hair dryer and mix some 50 50 water and vinegar hot and let it soak into the joint. It will graduly soffen the glue and you will be able to wigel it off . P.S make sure that some one has not put a screw in to the neck from the inside of the guitar first Good luck Bill.""""""""""""""
Bill, Thanks for the tip. I was thinking that something along those lines might work but I have to tell you there's no space whatsoever at the butt end of this joint so I was thinking it might be best to start by making some kind of slot there. Already checked for screws and such but I can not see any signs of that. No problems with the vinegar affecting the finish, which in this case is lacquer?
No Eric the vinegar will not harm the lacquer I have done it to different Guitars as well.You will no doubt do a littel damage to the conection but you will be abale to repair it after you get it all apart and dryed out again.You some times have to put the guitar upside down and protect the face side and take a block and tap the heal a little but be careful to make sure it is ready to come lose. The heat should help draw the Vinegar into the joint as you heat the back of the neck .Bill."""""""""
Bill, Just wanted to thank you for the vinegar and water suggestion. First time I've heard of that and it worked great. Really helped in breaking down the bond on the hide glue. Will use it from now on. The neck popped out with no problems. Will post photos of the completed project soon.
Your quite wellcome Eric any time I can help. Bill.""""""""""""

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