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I would like to try using hide glue, but the only supplier I can find in the UK for an electric glue pot is Touchstone Tonewoods who want £235 for the one they stock. As Axminster used to keep one at about £100 until fairly recently I think this is a ripoff, so if anyone in the UK knows of an alternative source for a reasonably priced electric glue pot I would be very grateful,
Dave.

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Here`s a nice late contribution.I bought a Barlow and Whitney electric glue pot.I never used the inner metal container as the glue would dry out on the surface where the glue touches .I use an old china mug without a handle.It has a slight taper --wider at the top.It is supported by a home made aluminium "rim"that holds it off the bottom and keeps most of the water vapour inside.I added a plastic lid made from a dry milk carton.This stops a skin forming on the glue.The flat top of the lid lays across the pot with the rim upwards.The hinge is a couple of loops of stringThe lid is "improved "with a handle that sticks out just right for when your hands are full and you can lift the lid with the back of your gluebrush hand .The ally rim has a pencil sized hole in it for access to the hot water.This is kept closed with a conical wooden plug 2.5" long.(loose fit).Practice makes perfect with animal glue .Always rehearse with a dry run for awkward jobs.Soak new glue overnight.Best glue is fresh .SPITFIRE aircraft propellors were put together with animal glue.So there is a MILITARY STANDARD.Cool!
Paul,
Please don't take this the wrong way. I don't mean this be a "slam" but I feel compelled to point out that your last statement could possibly indicate an attitude that keep you from getting some business.

If I were looking for someone to make repairs to my '24 Gibson mandolin and I discovered that you do not use hide glue, I would not consider you for my business. Hide glue should, at least, be an option. This mandolin was originally built using HHG and I think that it should be the glue of choice for it's repair unless it is absolutely necessary to use something else. I have other instruments that I wouldn't be so concerned about but this one is fairly old, desirable and in excellent condition. I would like any repairs to return it to as close to original condition as possible. HHG is what I would expect to be used in it's repair.

If you, as a repair man, have decided not to work with HHG, Perhaps you should be careful to disclose that to your clients. It may not make any difference to a lot of them but I'm certain it would make a difference to some.

Ned
Hi David
Went into your question just because you a based near me, I also want to build my next guitar with hide glue so all the replies are of help to me. On a Lighter note you should try my wifes porrage it would stick anything
Thanks John
Hi John,
Sorry I've taken so long to respond to your reply to my question. I've just bought a slow cooker at a car boot sale, but the minimum temp. it reaches is 160 deg. F. Do you know if this is too hot? I know that 140F. is about right but I don't know at what temperature it ceases to be of use. I've just restarted building and have two projects on the go, a OO for my nephew's 18th. birthday and a parlour for me. I see you are in Bristol ,
I live in Weston super Mare so if you would like to correspond and share information that would be great, but be warned , I am a total guitar fanatic and can bore the pants off anyone not of like mind(ask my wife!). Do you know Tom Waghorn and Jonathan Kinkead two excellent luthiers in Bristol both really nice guys and extremely helpful?
Kind regards,
Dave
To David Gibbon On wikipedia they specify 160F is ideal.Have a close look at the mention about gluing CELLOS.I have made violins but I would have to really think hard about the gluing routine if I tried a cello.It`s closer to a guitar size so maybe there`s a u tube tutorial.I am not sure about 140F though.A slow cooker has a thermostat but can you trust electric goods in a garage sale ?Spend a while checking it out first I would say. The bit I had never seen before was putting a layer on one surface,then dealing with the joining process separately using a hot knife(or knives?) I can give you a really useful tip .If you put a layer of clean newspaper between the wooden surfaces you can separate them a lot more cleanly.This is an accepted method for gluing ebony fingerboards on violins.And that reminds me,warm up the wood if possible as ebony is what they call a cold wood.Working time of one minute is a tight schedule to keep to.
Hello John,
Thanks for your input on this, I've just re-checked on Wikepedia and they state that the glue starts to break down at 170 deg. F, so I'm now quite confident that my slow cooker will be fine as I have checked with an oven thermostat and at the low setting it reaches 160 deg. F. It now looks as if my first adventure with this glue will be sooner rather than later. Thanks again to you and all who have contributed to this thread,
Dave
I bought a baby bottle warmer that works well for small quantities of glue.
Hide glue can be measured, mixed, and cooked in any basic kitchen. It is almost as easy as tea. IMHO very much worth making it a habit/option. Someone mentioned buying AR glue cheap by the gallon. If you use that much in a year - it may be well worth it. Smaller fresh quantities might be considered worth the minor extra cash investment for quality shelf life? - Cheers.
I was in the same position a few months ago, asked a lot of questions, received a suggestion that works well. First I mix about 6 -8 oz of glue, keep in the frig til I need it (rots in about a week at room temp).

I then use a hot plate and a small 4" deep heavy saucepan to heat the water to about 160-175 degrees centegrade, testing the temp with a meat thermometer. You will soon discover thata is about the time the water just starts to bubble.

I bent a coat hanger wire to make a clip-on 'rod' across the top that will suspend about an inch above the water in the pot. That allow me to use a clothespin to clip a small plastic 2 oz cup (like you get with cough syrup or sauce on the side at an eatery) about 1/2" deep in the water in the saucepan. The hide glue will melt to the right consistancy in a couple of minutes. I add only the amount of glue from the premixed jar I need for the task at hand.

I then use a 4 oz short jelly jar to dip out some hot water from the pot, then use the clothespin to clip the plasitc cup to the side, down into the hot water and use. It will stay just right for e few min. usually more than the amout of time you need for most jobs. No waste! And the glue 'pot' is right where you want it. No pot, no wires.

Easy, simple, cheap!

Jerry
Take a look at this article. A Rival Hot Pot is about $15US and works just fine. See http://www.wellsguitars.com/Articles/Hot_Pot.php
That's exactly what I use, got it on Amazon cheaper including shipping than I could find in a store. Works great! Buy a good guitar book and get free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Rival-4071-WN-32-Ounce-Hot-Express/dp/B00006I...


I found a new glue pot...It's a wax melting pot used in a woman's spa for waxing off those hairs in delicate places (I think they call it a 'Brazilian' Wax Job). It was free, never used, and has an adjustable temperature control and holds a pint of glue. Internet searches yield many brands and cheap prices. HERE is one for 19 bux. Way cheaper than a $100 + glue pot...

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