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Couldn't you just "fake it" with ebony(or any other fretboard wood) strips?
I could....
I don't know why you couldn't cut it with a rabbet bit on a router table as long as the face isn't arched yet. I think I would want a very sharp bit and maybe tape off the edge I wanted to save. It might also be a good idea to do it is several passes. All of this is conjecture as I've never tried it on anything as potentially brittle as most fingerboard woods.
I ended up using the new built thickness sander and used the ebony cutoffs from the side of the board.
Last time I did this, it worked out OK. Just labour intensive. If I am going to be making lots of boards , I will try what Ned suggested. Thanks folks.
Agree with Ned, just rout a rabbet into the bare fingerboard (heaps of ways to jig it up) and then glue the binding strip into the rabbet and finish away to your hearts content. You can also cut the rebate with a table saw fence and square tipped blade or Dado blade (heaps of ways to jig that as well. I regularly size fret slotted hard ebony boards with a 3/8 spiral router bit and given a stable tool platform and sharp bits experience little or no tear-out on 1/16" passes.
Alternatively...you could just fake it and stack two binding strips which isn't so hard and in the absence of table saws and router tables is probably a reasonable fix. R.
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