Binding rabbit cutting and the Hitachi TR-6

[Dave Hanna]

I rebuild Harmony Sovereign guitars.  This starts with neck and back removal.   Then I replace the top bracing.   The tough part is installing new binding after the back is glued down.

 

A fabulous tool for cutting or re-cutting the binding rabit on the guitar back is the Hitachi TR-6 router with roller guide attached.   Due to the angle adjustable base, the TR-6 greatly simplifies the cutting.   This router appears to have been designed with the luthier in mind.   

 

The TR-6 is no longer manufactured, but there are lots of used one floating around.  I see them regularly on eBay and other vintage tool auctions. 

 

Why don't we see more discussion of this excellent tool?    

[Mike Kolb]

A pal had one of those and he really liked it, but it finally gave up the ghost and that was the end of his TR-6. So I think you answered your own question. We don't see much discussion because it's no longer available. Replacement parts are getting scarcer by the minute and Hitachi wasn't much help, according my friend who owned the tool. 

StewMac has a couple of tools that can help fill the void....

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Binding/Binding...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Routing/TrueCha...

The first unit is compatible with Dremels and the clones. The routing jig uses almost any laminate trimmer but StewMac is partial to the Bosch Colt.

 

[Hesh Breakstone]

There are other excellent solutions such as a William's jig or other jigs that overcome the issues of the domed top and domed back, usually not the same radius, as well as how a guitar's geometry changes as the sides taper back to front.  For budget conscious binding ledge cutting there is always the option of a laminate trimmer with a "wedge installed with double stick tape.  The wedge is made to counter the specific dome of the top and usually another wedge is used for the back.  Marking the router base and paying attention to this as one first does the climb cuts and later encircles the entire guitar and it's a simple, inexpensive solution.  Dan Earlywine shows the wedge method in the free-for-download Stew-Mac dread kit instructions.Notice the taper of the wedge and the mark on the lowest point.  It works but the user must faithfully keep the mark pointed toward the center of the guitar at all times.

 

Here is my WIlliam's jig:

 

Here is another solution that one may purchase ready to go.  It's hand held and very well made.  I owned this one but gave it away to a Luthier school prior to ever using it because I found out that it's possible to tip the thing inward causing a divot in one's guitar top or back.  Although those who are used to this type of jig like them the learning curve scared me off prior to ever using the thing.  With my William's jig it is possible to route the binding ledge blindfolded but I am NOT recommending this...

 

While we are discussing routing binding ledges I'm still grieving that Porter Cable nixed the PC-310 which in my experience is the finest laminate trimmer that I have ever used...