Anyone repair one of these?
Can this be soldered easily without causing heat damage. Another idea is JB weld and a clamping caul.
anyone here actually repair one of these?
Picture attached with feeler gauge inserted in opening which is 3” long.
I've had decent luck solft-soldering (lead/tin electrical solder) without undue overheating and plating damage. Had a pal holding ice cubes on the joint beyond the perimeter of the gap and was as gentle as possible with the propane torch. I used a liberal amount of acid/chloride flux.
J B Weld = no confidence from me. . .
Thanks Frank for the info. I think I will give it a try. Always nice to learn something new.
concerning JB weld, I think it works wonders. I had an old Case tractor, 1954 model that had a loose crank shaft pulley, wobbling badly. When I removed it both the crank shaft and pully were badly worn. Fixed it with JB weld. Cleaned both surfaces well and applied liberal amount of JB weld to both parts. Now I needed to align this as perfect as possible and did that by slowly cranking engine with the starter, watching the pully and inserting toothpicks between shaft and pully.
let it set for 24 hours or so, reinstalled belt pully and started tractor, pully run true as could be. This was close to 20 years ago and it still is running fine.
I tried the solder method and it did work with some persistence. I used a propane torch with as low a heat as possible and regular solder and flux like used when soldering copper pipe.
didn’t discolor or cause any damage to the plating.
Not sure this is any better, but the flame is literally the size of a sharpened pencil. While it's hotter, it is very localized.
Thanks Allen, after looking at it the flame seems hotter than is needed to solder and I don’t want to deform or discolor the metaL
Got the job done and learned something in the process.
standard plumbing solder with generous amount of flux worked the best for me. Used a small torch and once the solder started to flow back off with the heat. No need for any heat protection or cooling to adjacent areas. Wire brush and file off excess solder. Clean and smooth with 0000 steel wool.
Rosinol makes a small butane soldering torch and that is what I used. Standard torch would probably work ok with the smallest flame possible.
Once cooled I checked solidity of joint by running some Naphtha inside and checking for leakage on the outside. Worked well.
Another possibility is a resistance soldering unit, if you have access to one. Comes with a probe and a ground clip that’s clipped somewhere on the piece to be soldered and the probe is like an iron. The short circuit crates heat right at the contact point for a quick joint without getting the rest hot. Good for tacking the parts together before doing the whole seam. Can also be used with a special tweezer for wire and circuit board soldering.
Good show, Jim!