Shadow piezo "hair comb" saddle

[tadej bratkovic]

I need to make a new saddle for an acoustic, but the system on the particular guitar is Shadow type with a brass frame around the piezo wire and the original saddle is the hair comb type.

Do I have to cut under each strings like on original sadle or just leave it solid and flat? I will be making a Corian saddle. One thing that troubles me is the lower part of the saddle that sits in the brass slot which is thinner than the rest of the saddle that sticks out of the bridge.

Pics attached.

Thanks!

[Greg Mirken]

Nobody is jumping at the chance to answer your question, I think because everyone dreads these. When I encounter an instrument with a stupid proprietary PU system I first warn the customer. The cost may not be justified by the outcome. I would try making the saddle bottom flat and straight- you can notch it afterward to add flex if the output is really unbalanced. Since you aren't molding the piece it will have to be the same thickness to the top.

[John]

I always keep a few of these in stock for this situation 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3x-Piezo-Saddle-Acoustic-Pickup-Transducer-...

There's a good chance it will sound better than the original ....you can make money on the part sell them on a bone saddle and make money on the PITA repair.

[Robbie Collins]

Nice price! The coating looks irregular compared to a Fishman AG. Is the photo accurate and, if so, is there a problem getting the saddle to make full contact?  

I've always wondered why piezo saddle pickups were so expensive. The technology is simple and the manufacturing, Perhaps it's the tolerances (flatness).

How do they sound?

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Tad.

I stopped trying to fight & fix this design years ago. They were pretty lousy sounding when they worked. IMO, they're not worth trying to fix or improve. It's been my experience that trying to rehab these is just pouring time & energy into a black hole.

A conventional new saddle and an inexpensive Artec conventional style UST (or the inexpensive conventional style UST of your choice) is the most appropriate solution to this issue. The "next person" that has to replace the saddle will love you for it.

Just out of curiosity, why is the saddle being replaced? Is it worn, not working well or does the owner want a better saddle material than plastic (can't blame them for that!)?.

Good luck with it :)

[tadej bratkovic]

I wanted a new saddle because the low E string was considerably higher than all the other strings, and the overall action was already at 4mm. I examined it some more and I think it needs a neck reset instead of just saddle replacement.

The saddle has a slightly flatter radius than the fingerboard.

[Paul Verticchio]

Tad,

It's very acceptable to remove material from the top of the (your) saddle to reduce the action of the low E string.

It's also common practice to re-profile the saddle to match the fingerboard radius. It's not necessary to replace a saddle with each bit of work done to it.

Try that before committing to a re-set.

Good luck :)