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I have a 1980's KM-850 Bought on Ebay.Fantastic wood & workmanship-almost mint-which brings me to the problem.I think it has hardly been played & has been kept in it's case unplayed for months or years.So the neck has a kink at the 12th fret-straight from nut to 12-I'VE TIGHTENED THE TRUSS ROD,but it's still the same.Perfectly playable,but the fingerboard extension means pick clicking.I know I could get the frets filed down or even removed,but my main concern is that the mandolin just doesn't produce the tone or volume it should.Ideas please!

Tags: mandolin

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I've been beefing up my mando's each make....wider sides...only flat tops..Always have made wider fingerboards for the same reasons.Just completed what I'm classifying as a mandola
about 2.5 deep/14in wide at the bout.A somewhat unique shape too.All mahog.ah hell here's a pic.............
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If you haven't see it already there is a web site you might be interested in reading. This guy has done quite a bit of work on mandolin bridge design. I haven't tried any of these ideas yet but my brother made the bridge for one of the mandolins he built using some of these ideas and it worked pretty well.

http://www.murphymethod.com/redbridge.html

I think that every solid bridge I've seen on a mando seemed to work better than an adjustable bridge.

Ned
If the truss rod is too tight it can affect the sound quality. In your efforts to straighten the neck, an over-tight TR could be part of the problem. Other than that, imported F-style mandolins are a crap-shoot. Sometimes you get a great one, sometimes not. I have fixed several F-style that have the hump by removing frets, leveling the fingerboard and re-fretting.

If the top and back of your mandolin aren't tuned correctly to the correct phase, you can get "dead" sound. Likewise, a poorly-graduated top and back, an inferior neck block/dovetail or bad glue joints, or improperly tuned tone bars and wrongly-sized f-holes can create inferior sound.

Most of these mandolins are created more with the look-alike function more than the sound-alike function of vintage F-5's. If you're fond of the mandolin, it may be worth adjusting.

I've never known why the things have fingerboard extensions. Does anybody actually play there?
I'm pretty sure Loar/Gibson was involved in the development to include the fingerboard extension which is neccesary
to accomodate the neck angle being set at 7 degrees.Personally I don't like all the bells and whistles involved
in putting the body together like an armour plated tank w/cornerblocks, scrolls,tone bars and stuff although the great ones are hard to beat for tone others lack a quality sound. I better shut up .........
What about the F-12 and F-7 which have no fingerboard extension?
I think weight is a big factor.The Eccleshall is as light as a fiddle and is definately my cannon.Same applies to guitars-if my Bluegrass buddies admire a guitar & pick it up ,they always remark"It's really light."

Thanks all for your input-I may bother another Luthier buddy,Andy Viccars,for a fret job and solid bridge!
Yeah ,Ive got an F12

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