got scratches... burnishing cream ??

[nick-p]

even after using 3000 grit wet/dry and a pro polishing machine with the correct compound i'm seeing fine scratches on a cellulose finish. any ideas on a good burnishing cream ?. I tried a swirl remover [ known as T-CUT over here in the uk ] but that was WAY too abrasive.

[Steve Bettesworth]

I have no idea if this is what you are after but I've had some success with micro mesh clothes. I use it on tru oil finishes, working from a 1500 grade to a 12000 final polish. The actual shine comes after burnishing from 6000 grade onwards so even 3000 may be too abrasive. I've sourced micro mesh from ebay, costs about eight quid with post and lasts a long time. 

[Ned Knepp]

The guys here turned me on to Meguiar's Professional #9 Swirl remover which worked great after I ran through the micro mesh routine. I don't know if it's available over there but it work VERY well when I tried it.

[nick-p]

thanks for the advice folks.... is this the correct meguiars ??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110726380242?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&...

[Ned Knepp]

Yeah, Nick, that what I got. I think you should look for the micro mesh too. It's astounding what it can do with a little elbow grease. I don't think the swirl remover will work as well without moving through those ultra fine sanding "paper" first.  In my case, the instrument showed a "cloudy" glossy look after the micro mesh. The Swirl remover brought it to a nice shine.

You know, it could be that the swirl remover you already have will work fine if you use the micro mesh then try it. Maybe you don't need to get anything new in that department after all. 

[Robbie Collins]

I've found that scratches remain if I've skipped some steps - say, going from 320 to 1000 before micro-meshing, rubbing and polishing. Each grade removes the scratches of the next lower grade.

[Ned Knepp]

Also, if your not doing so already I find that misting water from a spray bottle keeps me from soaking everything but keeps the paper/ pad cutting. 

[Kerry Krishna]

A bunch of Perfect advice from Perfect Forum posters!. 

Man, I'd follow these folks instructions anytime!

 Nick, plan on spending some time doing this, don't hurry, use all the grades of sandpaper, and you will end up with a terrific looking piece. 

[nick-p]

you folks have helped such a lot. I have bought the micromesh and mequiars No.9.... here goes

[Ed Minch]

It sounds like you are using the micro mesh by hand sanding - I do this and have had good success using the brown eraser shaped like a small shoebox as a bloc.

I have also heard others say that the Meguiar's polishing compound recommended for use after the #9 makes an even better shine.

Are you then using the swirl remove by hand or with a power polishing rig?  

Ed

[Ned Knepp]

I'm not Nick but I can tell you that it works well by hand even though I'm sure the intention when it was formulated was that it would be used with a buffer.  It's a professional grade automotive paint product and buffing a car by hand isn't fun. ( Yeah, I was a teenager and didn't know any better... and the car was small... and I didn't have money for a buffer anyway... and I couldn't talk my little sisters into doing it. )  

 

[nick-p]

hi Ed, i'm using the micromesh by hand [ small block ] and then orbital for the No.9.  results are already pretty good although i'm still a bit unsure just how worthwhile the 8000 and 12000 micromesh is, I seem to be getting better results with 3000 wet/dry then mequiars No.9. .

[Robbie Collins]

Might as well try going the whole route just to see. As Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.”