Neck joint on a Aria A558 classical guitar.

[John Yungbluth]

I'm looking for a little insight on the neck joint for my Aria A558 classical guitar that needs a reset.  Its a very nice guitar with rosewood sides and back, cedar top and maybe an ebony fingerboard.  Has anyone reset one, or any of the A554-558 models.

I believe this model is from the late 60's or 70's because of the old style headstock.  Aria provided me a few sample pages from their 1984 catalog and an undated few pages, all which has the present day headstock.  They offered no possible date that the headstock styles were changed.

Looking at the neck block it is not a Spanish heel.  The shape is wrong and the grain varies from the neck material.  The block is a single solid piece, the heel of the neck is a stacked construction. 

I want to get this right the first time, so I'm asking for help from anyone who has worked on this model before, or has come across any information on them.  Hope I don't need to cut off the fingerboard extension to

Thanks in advance.

John

[David Farmer]

 I'm not familiar w/ this exact instrument but if there's a block glued to the top under the fingerboard extension you might be in trouble. Can you post a mirror picture of the top under the fingerboard?

[John Yungbluth]

David, thank you for your response.  There is no block inside under the fingerboard extension.  There are 2 braces that run across the top  between the sound hole and the neck block.  I'm estimating that the neck block is about 1/2  to 5/8 inch thick.

When I bought the guitar it had no bridge, and I modified the one I added to lower the slot and saddle to the point I almost lost all break angle on the strings to the tie block.  It was playable, but the action remained high.

I still have the option to make a new bridge and just put off an inevitable reset for now.  But I want to get this one ready for another generation.  So I'm hoping for a reset solution.

Another option is to flush saw off the neck and convert to a bolt on.

Any ideas are welcome.

      

[David Farmer]

I'm glad there is no block.

I'd bet it's a  shallow dovetail pretty far forward of the 13th fret. I'd try pulling the 13th and angling a drill bit towards the 12th pretty sharply and see if you can feel the pocket. Unless someone else knows what's in there.

[Frank Ford]

In discussing Japanese and other Asian guitars, I always suggest that one be watchful for non removable necks, either dovetails potted in epoxy, or (more likely) necks that are  butt joints reinforced with dowels.

[David Farmer]

 John, I'll dig around for a photo.

The reason I responded is I used a," dead" guitar to try my new neck steaming rig and it  was a ply classical with an identical label except it was labeled," Ariana". Definitely not made to be reset but I suspected a dovetail. It was, but a steel re-enforcing bar ran through the neck block into the body. The neck was glued into the dovetail then the top put on and finally the fingerboard, trapping the top between the bar and the fingerboard.

Is the neck really heavy? Heaveir than cheap Mahogany/ Luan would be?

Based on the pictures, it looks the same but without the bar.

But, THIS IS JUST A GUESS!

If you are not prepared to total this thing if your wrong, I would deal with the neck angle by planning or replacing the fingerboard or shaving the bridge if there is room.

[David Farmer]

Here you go.

Asian mystory glue let loose just fine.

It would have worked just fine as a reset but for the traped steel ...

[John Yungbluth]

David, thanks again for a reply and the pictures.  Some of the early Aria guitars were marketed under the names Ariana, Aria, Aria Diamond and Arita.  Aria told me this model was made in 1978, 1981 & 1984. But admitted that many of their early records are lost and cannot confirm any years but these.  Nor could they tell me what year they changed from the headstock profile on my guitar to the style they show in their 1984 catalog.

There is no reinforcement in the neck.  I've run a strong magnet along the length and meet no pull.

The top looks laminated in your picture.  What about the sides?  Were they solid or laminate?

Mine has a solid top.  I had to repair a few splits and they were clean with the grain.  I believe the sides and the back are solid also.  But I base that on the catalog pages I have seen that describe the model, and the way the body resonates when played.  You can feel it in your fingers when you hold the body and strum the strings.  Also, inside the box the sides are marked with matching numbers in chalk, back by the end block.

I'm going to sit tight for a few more weeks and see if I get any additional insight.  Finish off a few other projects on my bench.

But I'm feeling comfortable that I would start  with steaming it out starting at the 13th fret like your picture showed.

Thanks everyone for continuing to contribute to my internet adult education class.

   

[Ned Knepp]

David, It looks to me like the steel bar is long enough that John would have seen it in when he look for the block earlier. Am I seeing thing correctly?

[David Farmer]

Ned, the block is what covered the reinforcement. That's why I asked about it.

John, this was a full plywood Junker. from the 60-70's. laminated back, sides,and top. Finish as thick as a bar top. The works. If yours is solid wood, it's a cut or two above the one in my pictures.

I still think it's likely got a similar neck joint. NO PROMISES THOUGH.