1970's Gibson J-40

[Kristin Fetterhoff]

I need to replace the binding on this J-40 and I would first like to redo the finish on it. I need to know first what is the best product or tool to use to strip off the old finish and the best new finish back on to not affect the sound of the guitar. The J-40 is not a popular Gibson but please refrain from negative comments on this guitar. I want to restore it regardless of its popularity. The photos show other work to be done but I have posted them just to let you see the type of finish it has. Thank you, Kristin

[Greg Mirken]

It's hard to see much detail in your photos, but based on what I see I would advise against stripping and refinishing that guitar. I would say the same thing to you if you brought me the instrument for the work. Touch up the areas that need it.

[Kristin Fetterhoff]

It does look pretty good and the back and sides just have a few nicks and scratches. Could you suggest what to get to touch up or use on the scratches and nicks. Thank you for your help. Kristin

[Frank Ford]

Regular paint remover will do a fine job on the lacquer.   Since the binding is gone, you'll only have a few areas where you'll need to keep the chemical off plastic - namely the soundhole rings.  Paint remover is strong stuff and it makes a quick snack of plastic - eating it right up. 

If  you don't have a copy, I recommend getting Dan Erlewine's book on guitar finishing - lots of good stuff there.

[Kristin Fetterhoff]

Thank you I will purchase that book for my library study. Kristin

[Glen H]

Use the paste or  gel type stripper.  Much easier to work with and lifts lacguer  right up.

[Kerry Krishna]

The pictures you posted give no real detail Kristen. Maybe go take a dozen or so in good light and post them too?

As  Greg has already said, stripping this guitar is not something I would ever do.  Do you want us to tell you why you think it needs to be stripped? I hope your mind is not already made up about this.

I would just replace the parts of the offending binding, and call the job finished. Even doing a few 2 inch  pieces of binding, and getting it to match  is not easy to do even for folks with lots of experience.

 Why do you think the whole guitar needs to be stripped? 

[Hesh Breakstone]

It very possibly could use a neck reset as well and if so that work should be done prior to refinishing.

Be aware that refinishing is a value killer too.

[Kristin Fetterhoff]

To those who ask about whether I have a definite plan I do not as yet. I am doing lots of research and getting expert opinions from members on this forum. I have an excellent Luthier in my area so I can take it to him but I feel I can do what needs to be done to get it back into good condition and not destroy the guitars value. On refinishing I could let that go. It has issues more important to be done it shows no sign of it needing a neck reset and plays beautifully with the crack along the sound hole to the base of the neck that will need repaired.That is still a possibility though. As for filling in the binding it is in the worst of cracking and breaking. Pieces falling out. I am glad that it doesn't require purfling and just binding. An easier job. Piecing it would not work. It is broken in too many places. Binding is easy to get for it to match. I will not start on it until the end of the season so I am still researching and your advice it valuable to me. Thank you all so much. Kristin

[Christopher Parker]

The tricky part about replacing binding has to do with the material usually being larger than the binding channel. Therefore, after gluing it in, it must be scraped or sanded flush with the existing finish. As you can imagine, this is difficult or impossible to do without actually sanding or scraping into the existing finish. However, if it's done carefully, there will hopefully be enough clear coat left on the surface to sand out the scraping/sanding marks, and bring the finish back to its original gloss. Also, in order for it to look "right", the guitar must be masked off and the binding oversprayed with tinted lacquer, and it should blend nicely with the existing finish. It takes a skilled expert to make a guitar look like the binding was never replaced. 

FWIW the binding replacement is not as tricky in the course of doing a refin, simply because you don't need to worry about damaging the existing finish. That said, I'm of the opinion that it's best to avoid refinishing a vintage guitar if possible.

[Greg Mirken]

Kristin, the crack you mention may be more serious than you think. If the edge of the soundhole on either side of the crack is misaligned, the neckblock may be loose. Not a fatal situation, but requires more work than just gluing and cleating the crack. This is not an unheard-of Gibson problem.