Nut cut

[Roger Häggström]

I'm always looking for better methods, sometimes it's a big change and sometimes a small one. Previously I used a small angle hook to make the cuts in the nut for the strings. But with a long straight edge between the matching string pin hole and the marking for the slot on the nut the cut will have a very small but correct angle. The cut and the string will be dead straight and the string will only bend one time at the nut and not two!

A small improvement indeed but very quick and easy compared to using the small angle hook :-)

[Andrew]

Interesting. But what do you mean by an "angle hook". Like a bevel gauge?

[Roger Häggström]

My Google translate told me so... this one...

[Andrew]

Ahh I got you. Common terminology for that in english is a square. Specifically, a 'try square', since it has a stock that rests against the reference surface.

[Roger Häggström]

I should have known, I kinda knew it. Well. I have laughed really hard many times when translating Swedish into English using computer programs :-)

[Russell Vance]

Hi Roger,

Some one else will do the equation, however, off the top of my head the angular difference or correction in this case is less than 1 degree.    This figure in this application, considering the angle of the strings after they leave the nut for the tuners, is of no real consequence.  When taking into account the mechanical inaccuracy of cutting the slot it becomes insignificant.   I think that the use of the edge of the ruler to guide the nut file is valid in this case.   Nice exercise otherwise.

Regards,

Rusty

[Roger Häggström]

Yes, it's a minor improvement. I will keep doing like this simple because it's so quick and easy compared with doing it with a true square - and a bit better. Using a micro Japan saw for the first cut and being careful with my files I can keep that degree going :-)

With my nut correction I have a thicker nut than standard and some of the cuts are about as long as the nut is thick. Some old guitars has a narrow nut and a wide saddlebone too.

[Andrew]

I gotta level with you Roger. The only marking I do for cutting nuts slots is with sharp dividers or calipers and a scribe to mark the distance between strings. I set the angle by eye after with a fine saw or the narrowest slot file, and open/deepen/shape the slots from there as needed. I usually do the majority of my slotting work with the strings installed, and therefore could use them in lieu of a straight edge if needed. Its pretty quick (not saying Im very quick mind you lol) and the only improvement required is in my wrist, and perhaps the file itself as it wears. But to be fair, Im sure your nuts function very well.