Identifying a resonator style guitar and figuring out a neck reset.

[Christian A Salisbury]

Hey all, I got this resonator style guitar in my shop and it needs a neck reset. I've had the hardest time identifying it because the logo at the top of the head stock isn't 100% readable, and all of the other guitars online like this one, or at least similar to it, have something completely different on the headstock. Regardless of that I'm trying to figure out how to reset the neck. The block on the inside runs from the neck Hill all the way to the tail block, with two height blocks underneath it, one glued in place and the other not glued in place. The block that runs through the middle of the guitar is also glued in at the bottom of the shelf for the resonator cone. Is this block just glued into the inside and should the neck come off without having to do anything to that block? With any luck I'll be able to figure out how to post some pictures of what I'm talking about.

[Christian A Salisbury]

[Len Biglin]

Id say National 

            Trojan

           made in USA

Reading that way , top to bottom. Not sure about the reset .

[Ron Frazier]

the stick from the neck to the end block shim the end to move the neck up or down to adjust the neck,

Is it a round neck or square neck?

Is there a cone?

If square the strings are high to play with a slide and should not need reset, If round neck it needs adjusted to play.

Ron

[Christian A Salisbury]

It has a deep v neck, it is definitely meant to be played. It has the cone and the cover and all the necessary parts for it to play, except good action.

Interesting that the block inside needs to be adjusted to adjust the angle of the neck, because it's glued in place quite solidly.

[Mike Kolb]

The neck on a regular acoustic guitar is also glued in place quite solidly, but it needs to come-apart for the neck to be reset.  Looks as though as that applies here as well.

[Paul Breen]

The dot markers at the end of the finger board will likely have screws under the inlays

[Christian A Salisbury]

The neck is definitely glued in and will need to be steamed out for sure.  I just can't tell if that block running through the middle of the guitar is attached to the neck or not.  This particular guitar doesn't have screws attaching the fingerboard extension, it's just good ol glue holding it down.

[Roger Häggström]

I think the screws are found only on the metal body ones and not on the wooden ones.

[onewent]

The strap button should screw out and with some wiggling the neck stick or rod (I think you call it a block) should work loose (like a banjo neck and stick).  You can remove the 'mushroom' supports under the neck stick, too.  Many of these wood bodied Nationals have a traditional dove tail to attach the neck, but this one likely does not, so I'd double-check to see if screws are under the dots in the fb extension.

Can you post  a pic of the inside where the neck stick enters the body?  These are usually 'banjo' type set ups and easy enough to remove, then re-shim to get the correct angle, tighten up again, and you're done.  Never saw one with a dt and the stick.  But you never know!

BTW, check neck relief.  Many of these I see have rather bowed necks from high string tension from lap slide playing and high tension.  And also the saddle on the biscuit, they're often cut down to lower action as it rises over the years, so you'll want to put a nice, tall saddle on again to get good down pressure for optimum tone.

Of course, there could be a heel block and a neck with a dt, plus the stick, just not integrated into the neck itself, and rather just a support in the body, but I've never seen that combo, but there's a first time for everything.  Then you have to steam out the neck in the traditional sense.

Tom