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I am interested in seeing your methods, jigs, tool, etc... I have been using my Dremel tool and a simple jig.

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Splines for headstocks? Like Selmer used? Why are you getting at? Is this a construction technique you're asking about? A repair technique?
Sorry for being short on description. Maybe I used the wrong word as well (spline?). Repairing a headstock by inlaying wood on both sides of the truss rod to reinforce the joint. I have been using hide glue for the main glue up for ease of cleaning with a good bond. Then routing slots with a Dremel. I inlay wood as per Hideo's book.I use epoxy on the inlays.. I have been cobbling together various simple router jigs. I would like to built something more permanent and am always considering different tools. Any info and sharing of your methods, jigs, etc... would be deeply appreciated. Thanks!
I don't do splines for that, but do, when it's called for, occasionally use a "backstrap" - a thick veneer that covers the back of the headstock and extends across the fracture and down a ways into the neck. Like dowels, splines just create more places for glue joints to fail and reduce the existing wood. It varies from case to case, of course, but many snapped headstocks merely need to be reglued. No further reinforcements are called for.
Thanks Paul. I have seen that method, and really should give it a try. I have had good luck with just gluing in many cases. However, I have become popular with a crowd of young folk that are abusing and re-abusing SG's, LP's, PRS, etc.... I used this spline method on the re-breaks. I will give the 'backstrap' a try. I was looking at Frank's site and it does seem strong and clean looking. Thank you much.
Gibsons are sort of chronic in this regard, not much experience with PRS's. With rebreaks, you pretty much have to do something more than a reglue. I trust the backstrap 10:1 over any other methods.
Agree with the backstrap laminates, which I further reinforce by partial or full face plate replacement if the damage extends to that area. I use 50 thou structural graphite fibre splines to create strength in the break area and cover them with a number of conformal laminates matched to the neck wood (we cut these in house and vary the thicknesses according to use). This hides the break even in shader finishes which the evident use of exposed splines cannot do.
However, as has been said, a simple gluing together of a break is sometimes all that is needed, but when the break is serious it becomes imperative to know what one is doing otherwize the longevity of the repair will be compromised - working joints will develop cracks in the overlaying lacquer for a start.

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