Gluing micarta or black richlite

[David Houchens]

I'm resetting the neck on a Martin CEO 4R and it has a micarta or black richlite fingerboard.
I was wondering if the LMI glue will hold the FB extension? The glue that was under it looked whitish (sp). Would these two materials need different glues?
Also, being that I don't have any LMI glue, is there any other glue that you might recommend?

[Russell Vance]

My default glue for hard to stick polymers and plastics is expanding polyeurethane glue available just about anywhere good adhesive is sold. We use it to glue our phenolic templates together and it has good gap filling qualities as well. You need to mask up the surrounds well with brown shiny 'packing tape' or similar and you need to able to clamp it (it's pressure activated) but apart from that I haven't found a downside in this application. Removing the squeeze out when the glue is half cured and pliable is a good idea also as it does stick very well and is hard to remove when fully set. I use a scalpel/model knife to cut through the semi set glue down to the packing tape and the whole section comes away clean.

Alternatively, there is a new generation of CA glue out there that is optimised for plastics - I haven't used this yet but it is an option (at face value). That's all I know........what does Martin use , anybody? Rusty.

[David Houchens]

Thanks Rusty. I'll look for this type glue. Is there a name brand I should look for?
David

[Tim Mace]

Gorilla fits I think!

[David Houchens]

I didn't know Gorilla glue was easy to release if the neck needed removing in the future.

[Tim Mace]

I wouldn't use it if you want to separate in the future...sorry.

[Russell Vance]

David, poly glues are not designed to separate - unlike hide or cross linked yellows. But, the point is: plastic/composite Martins fall apart at the glue lines , especially when knocked - I think this is unacceptable but, maybe it's a case of the manufacturer using an unsuitable glue so as to maintain the ability to separate the pieces. Composites are generally glued up so as to not come apart and appropriate glues are used. You can see the problem here: I do not know of a composite glue that is designed to separate at call. I use poly glue on body joints of composite Martins and to stick the tops back onto Ovations among others. However, as this job is simply to secure the fingerboard extension, and assuming the extension is conformal and doesn't need to be glued down against tension I suppose a cross linked yellow would fill the gap. R.

[David Houchens]

Thanks, I won't use it here but might like to attach some phenolic to several of my jigs using it. Using phenolic basically because my glues won't stick (not bad anyway) to it, I had never thought if there was such a glue. I have always doweled it. Nice to have an option.

[Robert Dixon]

I need to attach phenolic to a bar magnet in order to make a bobbin for pup winding. Super glue and epoxy both have a high failure rate, causing spectacular messes when one or another of the phenolic ends separates from the magnet while the wire is being wound on. I don't suppose anyone knows if the Gorilla or Rhino glues would do the trick? I think the main problem is the hard, non porous surface of the magnet.