Top repair after bridge removal

[Robert Bander]

I am restoring an old Harmony mahogany body flat top.  The bridge had already been removed and some top wood apparently came off with the bridge.  I am installing a new bridge but need to fill in the gouges that remain in the mahogany where the bridge sits.  The deepest depression is .044 inches (a little over 1 mm).  How would you suggest filling it the gouges?  The products I am aware of are Wood-Fil Putty (Stew Mac), Mohawk Fil-o-wood putty, Minwax red  mahogany colored putty, filling with mahogany sawdust and drop filling with thin cyano. Or is there any other possible method?
Thanks,
Robert Bander

[Rob Mercure]

Is the missing wood where the new bridge will cover it? If so unless a great amount of wood is missing it's probably not worth worrying about. If the missing wood is beyond the bridge "footprint" then splinting it may be the best choice. Perhaps a pic of the area would help assist with suggestions from those with better cosmetic skills than mine.

Rob

[Robert Bander]

The area is completely covered by the bridge when attached. I'll get a photo up later today.
Thanks for responding

Robert

[Chris Rochow]

I agree with Rob... send us a photo for all of us to see it.

A putty fill may come loose in time. I would seal the 'bare' wood with a clear sealer first, and then fill using a Stew Mac #20 (thick) CA, addiing the coloring to the #20 to match the top's color (use a scap piece of wood first to test with).
Use a tooth pick to pick up the glue and drop fill the damaged area. Give it a day or so to fully dry/set. Wet sand the fill level.. maybe begin with 800 grit, and finish up with 2000 grit, I go all the way to 12,000 grit... then buff.
Best wishes

[David Houchens]

I would put wood back in. If there are different depths, fill each depth separately. Level with a chisel, then using a small sanding block with sandpaper attached, sand within the bridge foot print.

[Robert Bander]

My only concern is that I'll need to remove wood from inside and bottom of the gouges. This would remove wood from an already thin top, in an area that is under a lot of tension from the strings. I'll get a photo up today.

Thanks,

Robert

[Robert Bander]

I was also thinking along those lines. I was thinking to sand no greater than 400 to allow for greater frictional cohesion between top and bottom of bridge. The area in question is completely covered by the bridge, so color matching doesn't seem to be a major consideration.

Thanks for responding,

Robert

[Robert Bander]

[Robert Bander]

Here's the photos

[Robert Bander]

forgot to mention... depth measurement error... actual depth is ".139" (3.5 mm).

[David Houchens]

Looking at these pictures, I still would glue down the lifted area and then taper and level out with wood. You can spend a little time and fit a piece in the large hole as well. I'd use hot hide glue for all. Sand flat and hide glue the bridge too.
Just my penny and a half.
I just like my bridge glued to wood and not glued to a patch of another type of glue.

[Robert Bander]

Yep, I think that is the best way to go. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks.
Robert

[Mark Dobbins]

HI Robert, another good way to fix, i would chuck one of my inlay dental burs in my dremel and rout a nice clean flat bottom square in the spots where the wood is gone and glue in a new square of mohagony with hide glue. just my 2cents
Mark