Removing rust from finish

[Justin]

I hope someone can help me with this. I have Fender Jag Stang in for repair. It's mostly in for cleaning, and  some setup. My problem is the rust that developed under the bridge is now partially in this finish. I'm not exactly sure how to approach this. Please help me out.

Thanks

Justin

[Eclipse Wizard]

Thats tough.... I would clean it as best as I could using regular guitar polish. then rub a tiny bit of wax over the area with the rust to try an prevent any future moisture from creating more rust.. I would also put a bit of wax over the entire perimeter.
James

[Eclipse Wizard]

The entire perimeter of the bridge that is..

[Ned Knepp]

Since it's under the bridge plate, I think I would try a bit of very find steel wool with a light touch. Go slow and keep it within the perimeter of the plate.

It's pretty toxic and the fumes can burn your lungs and eyes and splashes... well you don't want to splash it on you but muriatic acid applied with a cotton swab ( in a VERY open space) can be used for rust removal. A less "active" (and slower) but safer route may be acetic acid in the form of white vinegar. I think I would still use the very fine steel wool first to see if it is possible to bypass the chemical route. I'd also make sure I tested any chemical approach in a out of the way place first.

Ned

[Jeff Highland]

If you use any water based liquid method be careful not to get any in the screwholes or you may end up with the wood swelling and cracking the finish
I would be inclined to do nothing under the bridge other than the wax sugested earlier.

[Jim Bancroft]

Some fine grit lacquer polish will easily and safely remove the rust from the finish. There are a number of techniques that would work besides. Also a product called CLR will remove the rust from metal, may also be safe on a lacquer finish.

Jim

[Greg Mirken]

The rust stain is under the bridge, right? I would just hit it lightly on the buffer, tell the guy that there is some rust staining there, and recommend he not sweat or drool so profusely when he plays. This is not worth spending much time on.

[Gregory Hites]

Justin, Meguiars Mirror Glaze #2 - Fine Cut Cleaner should do the trick. It's safe on Nitro-lacquer, and bottle will probably last you a lifetime. Napa sells it along with any good automotive finishing store. I also use the Mirror Glaze #9- Swirl Remover on guitar finishes.

Greg

[Eclipse Wizard]

Honestly, how much is the rust affecting the functionality if the instrument? The rust is bound to be deeply imbedded in the finish. I think by going after it you would be digging a hole that's not worth being in at all. Then lacquer touch up will be necessary, and I dont know about you guys but I could not create a color to match that.

[Frank Ford]

I have yet to try it on lacquer myself, but next time I get something like that, I'm going to give it a shot with a cleanser called "Bar Keepers Friend." It's a regular scouring powder, so you'd want to take it easy, maybe rubbing it mixed with water using a toothbrush. It may scratch the finish, so be prepared to do a little polishing afterward.

The interesting thing about Bar Keepers is that it eats rust quite effectively, while abrading the surface lightly.

[Ned Knepp]

Nothing cleans the tarnish from copper faster or better that Bar Keepers Friend and it makes keeping stainless steel "new" very easy.

I never thought about trying it on rust stains like this before. It could work very well.

[Mark Dobbins]

Justin i would also put the bridge back in place and mask off all around it with blue tape before you start scrubbing so u protect the finish outside of the bridge the best u can. good luck
Mark

[Mac Walker]

I read somewhere that rubbing aluminum foil onto rusted parts will clean it up nicely. The aluminum will essentially "pull" the oxygen out of the iron oxide. Generally this technique is used to give a quick clean to slightly rusted tools...