Saddle radius for acoustic guitar -Your approach?

[John Henderson]

Hi there, I’m a novice when it comes to acoustic guitars and was wondering about how you guys approach setting a radius on a new saddle.

Do you simply give it the same radius as the fretboard then tilt it up a bit on the bass strings?

Cheers.

[Donald A. Fortune]

Hi John- heres what I do to make ready a saddle to be installed in a guitar (may not be everyones choise)
I use a radious block to match the finger board and then set the height once the strings are installed.
hope this helps you out--
Peace, Donald

[John Henderson]

Donald,so you sand the radius onto the saddle with a radius block?
Then set the height accordingly by sanding the bottom of the saddle?
Cheers.

[Jim Bancroft]

Saddle top has the same radius as the fretboard, I use the radius blocks sold by Stew Mac to accomplish the job. Just double stick tape some sandpaper onto the block, then sand the saddle top.

Jim

[John Henderson]

Some luthiers say they shape their saddles to a curve that is not a true radius because of the different needs of the different string gauges from string 1 to string 6 and because the tilting of the saddle slot for intonation distorts the way the fretboard radius relates to the saddle radius.

[Frank Ford]

I'm one of those. I start with a radius similar to the radius of the board, tipped 1/16" higher on the bass. BUT, then as I adjust the final curve, I concern myself with the heights of the individual strings and try to take into account the playing style used. Fingerstyle guitarists often need a bit higher action for the D and G, where flatpickers and heavy strummers may want the low E higher. When I'm done, the saddle has a curvature or arch, but it's not measurable as a true radius.

If you look at the old Martins, for example, you'll se a strong "rake" - very high over low E and low at the first string, with nearly no radius at all.

Far as I'm concerned, there's no "right or wrong" - there's just what works.

[John Henderson]

Thanks Frank.
How do you 'customize' the individual D & G or low E height's you spoke about.
Is this still via the curve or sanding the bottom of the saddle?
Thanks.

[Frank Ford]

That's right I adjust the curve to get differential heights.

[John Henderson]

Also, when you tip the radius 1/16 higher at the 6th string, do you measure or do it by eye?
Can you suggest a fool proof way for a beginner?

[Frank Ford]

Fool proof? Well, the only fool proof method I can think of is the one I use - namely the willingness to start over and redo. I start over all the time!

[Doug T]

Like most folks here, I rough a curvature that is taller than what I expect it to take (I use a straight edge from nut to get a starting point) and then install the E strings. I then get the height I want on those. I can then generate a curve from my radius block that goes from those two points and get a much close idea to what I want. I work it down to about 1/16 of that curve and then work each string individually. I personally like a flatter bass side on the mandolin I play, so flattened the G side of the fingerboard and refretted. I build guitars with a 20" curve unless a tighter one is asked for, so fairly flat compared to some, but still ends up with a a slightly squashed curve proud on the bass side.

[John Henderson]

Thanks guys.
Heh heh, 'fool proof' was the wrong term, yes , but you know what I mean.I'm trying to get into good habits early.
That's very inspring to hear you start over all the time! I can now justify the 257 saddles I have messed up and thrown away.Lol.
The hardest thing I found (like everthing for the 1st time) is trying to to visualize the process.

Doug, when you say you "use the straight edge from nut to get a starting point",do you mean you place one end of the straight edge in the string slot and the other on the saddle, then measure the height at the 12th fret?

[Donald A. Fortune]

Hi John - If you are a beginner at making a saddle then I sugest that you get something for a practice piece first before you try to tackle something like a good bone saddle, after all at about 4 bucks each saddles can get expensive if you use them for practice... juat my 2 cents worth. And to answer your question as to the radious,
yes I sand a radious on the saddle to match the fret board radious..
Best to you in your adventure..... Peace, Donald