Matsumoku Aria Pro II TS Bridge problems

[Perry Kiehl]

I have some problems with a Aria Pro II TS400 bridge.  This is a

'81 model guitar with a string through body bridge.  Matsumoku

used a couple different bridges, and this may be the most quirky

design.  The string spacing is 2 1/16". 

The saddles are very tall (.3845) and to date there aren't any off

the shelf saddles that are a direct replacement.  The indivdual

offset saddles are symetrical in shape, but the extra tang on the

non attachment side that is just floating.

I'm getting a bit of a sitar effect on the high E string.  I think this

could be partially caused by a wonky saddle that's got extra

grooves.  The low E string saddle doesn't have the groove

centered on the saddle.  Another issue is the holes in the base

plate are also getting grooves (marked in red on the pic) from the strings.  See the pics.

So here's my questions:
Should I smooth the saddles and re-cut string grooves centered

on the saddle?
Should I chamfer (bevel) the holes on the bridge plate so the

strings don't drag and cut into the plate?

I would simply replace the bridge if there was a direct bolt on. 

I'm looking into getting new bridge plates made that would

accept off the shelf saddles, but that's a bit more of a project

than time allows.

Thank you in advance for any help!

[Perry Kiehl]

Here's a couple more pics of the bridge before I removed it.  You can see just how tall the saddles are.  FWIW I have replaced the wrong screw on the high E saddle.

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Perry.

"Without having the guitar in front of me"..... here's what I'd do:

File away the existing string grooves & start fresh. Re-profile the tops of the saddles.  There appears to be enough saddle  to do that without negatively impacting the geometry of the action.

As for the bridge plate, I'd get out the Dremel and grind an additional 3/32" to the hole on the neck side of the plate.  I do this as part of a total Strat refinement.  I also use abrasive cord to round off the new "bearing*" surfaces to assure a smooth transition.

Best of luck (:

* if done correctly, the string will not bear against the plate.

[Perry Kiehl]

Paul,

Thanks so much for your reply.  I do have one follow up question.  After I smooth and polish the tops of the saddles, do I need to put some kind of small groove there or just leave it smooth?

[Paul Verticchio]

Perry,

Yes, a guide slot is required.  Otherwise your strings will slip off the saddle.

The easiest method for doing that is:

Restring the guitar without slotting the saddles. Use the cheapest set of properly gauged strings you can find.  You'll see why (:

Place the strings where you want them.

Now here's the part I hate... take a small hammer (8 oz. head) and tap the top of each string where it contacts the saddle.  This will imbed a starter groove in the saddle. 

Finish the job with your gauged nut files observing the profile of the fingerboard. For a highly polished slot, take some nylon cord (18") and rub some fine grade metal polish into it.  Run the cord back & forth through the saddle slot several times.  The cord & polish will give you a super smooth bearing surface. I use the cord & polish method when I just want to polish the groove & not remove stock from the saddle. The abrasive cords work well too but are a bit expensive.

Here's a link to Stew-Mac's site that'll give you a pictorial tutorial on how to do it.  http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0109.html   It shows a tune-o-matic bridge but the process will be the same on yours.

Oh ya, when you're done, put on a fresh set of good strings before tou set the action & intonation.

BTW: Cool guitar.  I love those late 70's/early '80's MIJ guitars. I bought an Ibanez 2618 Artist in '78 and just recently retired it after 33 years ONLY because it weighs 12 lbs.!

Have fun with the project.  It's easier than it sounds (-:,

Paul

 

[Perry Kiehl]

Thanks again Paul for your help!