Advice need on a Favilla F-5 rebuild.

[Ned Knepp]

Hi folks,

 I just started a rebuild on a '60s, mahogany Favilla F-5. The instrument isn't pretty and probably won't ever be worth much. The top is cracked in several places with about half of them badly "repaired". The previous attempts to fix the problem included the use of both white glue and epoxy but evidently the person doing it never heard of cleating cracks. The result is that almost all of this cracks are now longer with glue stuck firmly to one side of the crack. The white glue cleans up easy enough but I have no idea how to deal with the epoxy. I would just leave it but it seems that it's was used as more of fill than an actually adhesive. 

The result is that the top is distorted along it's width. I removed the neck and the top and I've managed to get most of it to align properly so I can glue it back together but I just don't know what to do about the epoxy. Does anyone have a secret method for removing epoxy from cracks? Please? I'm open to just about any advice on this. 

While I'm at it, the guitar was fan braced with very small braces. The bridge plate must be replaces and was mahogany with the predictable results that it broke long the bridge pins.  I've never heard one of these so I don't know how it sounds with the original bracing. I have also seen where some people recommend replacing the original with an X brace. Any Favilla fans out there that can give me some advice on this guitar?

BTW, I took some pictures but it was late, the lighting was not good and most of them are not clear. I will post a couple now but I need to try to get better one later.

[John]

I had a Favilla uke in my shop a month ago. I think it was a gold silk screened logo. Here's a link to some Favilla info 

http://www.catfish1952.com/favilla.html

[Ned Knepp]

Thanks, John. I was afraid that it was silk screened. I need to find clean copy of the graphic so I can make a stencil. 

I've looked at the Catfish site and it seems to be just about the only site with any amount of information concerning this brand. I shouldn't grouse since I've tried to look up other brands with even less information available. 

[John]

I did a restoration on an old Danelectro dbl neck a while ago. The headstocks were a mess and the logos were gone. I decided it was time to add silkscreening to my toolbox. I went to the local art supply store and bought some silkscreening supplies.It wasn't that hard and the results were pretty good. 

[Ned Knepp]

John, Could you do a "Howto" some time? I've run into this a couple of times and had to try hand painting which wasn't as clean as I wish it was. 

[Edward Kauf]

[Edward Kauf]

This is the best logo I have.  It happens to be on my least favorite guitar.  It is pressed into the wood probably using a gold transfer.  Since the whereabouts of this press are unknown I'm sure a silkscreen, or decal would work fine.  If I can find the scan of the more rare headstock decal, i'll scan that for you also.

  

[Ned Knepp]

Thanks very much, Edward. I found a couple too but this one is the most straight on I've seen.  I did notice that it was pressed too but I don't think that it's going to happen on my guitar. 

 Truthfully, between my work and the previous attempt at repair, there is already a lot that is not original, I may just leave it off. It's not as if this one would ever be collectible

I've never actually played one. What is it that you don't like?.

[Edward Kauf]

The only thing that I don't like about my f5 is the string spacing.  Great if you small fingers, but every guitar is a bit different so one should really play them for what they are.  The bridge on mine is split through the pin holes so it really needs to be replaced so when I get some time, and I'll make some adjustments then.  These guitars never got much respect over the years, quite the same as any bottom of the line instrument including guild M20's, and Martin 17 series so one usually finds them in somewhat abused condition.  After re bracing mine can hold it's own sound wise with a friends 1949 O18.  It sounds great while fingerpicking, or strumming, but like anything else, it has it's own personality.  I would sell my Martin om21 before I let it go.  I never refinished it after doing the repairs which is probably for the best.  A few days after stringing it up, my daughter knocked it over and snapped the headstock off " which I immediately fixed".  It's easier on the ulcers when you can't notice new scratches!  I would love to see some more pics of your guitar.