So, I'm sure this is a typical newb problem, but I can't seem to figure out the best approach.I couldn't find any obvious previous threads on this, and a web search seems fruitless.
I take a bone blank, shape it nicely to size, make sure it's a good fit, mark out my lines, get out my xacto razor saw, very carefully try to saw on the lines, and by the time I'm done rough filing the slots, my spacing is all screwed up. I suspect that the saw is wandering when I start it off, which is not surprising, since I am trying to saw through bone.
Any good tricks to start that saw off and stay true and centered every time? Clearly my thumbnail is not a precise enough tool for the job.
Thanks!
Mark
Tags:
Mike
Great minds think alike! that's exactly how I do it, with exactly the same tools!
And no, I have no connection with StewMac, except as a satisfied customer..
Mark, can you take a photo of how you hold your saw when your are cutting the nut. Exactly the same way you hold it.
Ok. That got one question out of the way. How hard are you holding it, there shouldn't be any strain in your hand. The size of the handle might be a problem, with the size of your hand, but it might not.
Also, there could be to much "meat" on the bone, and that could cause the blade to move, I can have the same problem with the same saw that your using (and any other saw) if Im not watching what Im doing. Try taking off some of the top before notching.
If anything, scrap wood is so cheap its free. So it never hurts to practice and play with new ideas. I would not want to toss out three bucks worth of bone, so wood works great. Practice Practice Practice, that all my thoughts.
P.S. try waxing the blade with a candle, it will not help the the side movement but can aid in the cut.
Thanks for the hint. I actually have plenty of bone to practice on - I got a couple of large chewing bones from Petco, sliced them up on the bandsaw, put the pieces in a jar with some acetone, and let them sit for about three months. They are great, and I've had plenty for several guitars, but much cheaper then commercial bone. (And I get to pick what part of a piece I use for a saddle or nut, kinda nice.)
I've also discovered that using the cheapo welder tip files to basically burnish a slot leaves it nice and round, and it seems a little smoother than with just the nut files. Go figure.
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