resetting a newer J-45

[Chris Scott]

Just curious if anyone here's had to reset a newer Gibson J-45. I did a '60s model some years back and it was a no-brainer, but I've never have had to pull a new one apart. 

This one came to me as new a few years ago for a set-up, and at that time I saw it was pretty well under set. At that time I recommended the owner send it back as it was in my opinion just not acceptable for a brand-new guitar (let alone a Gibson), and he tried to get them to take care of it, but was basically just blown off.

I've just tried to get the thing apart, and after 1/2 an hour of steaming it doesn't seem to want to budge more than about halfway down from the top, which I'm guessing is due mostly to the wide heel (I've had an older J-200 and a number of Guilds fight me in the past because of this) so I'm curious if there's a better technique to be used before I risk any serious finish blush (or worse).

For the record, I've always punched two holes in the 15th fret slot, each one about 1/4" inside the f-board's edge, as it's always seemed better at getting the steam down into each cheek on these wider heeled guitars, though I could be wrong - thoughts?

Just curious if anyone has a better technique...thanks for reading!!

[Paul Breen]

You likely have a Gibson with a dovetail that has parallel sides and not the traditional  V shape.

I did one last year, a 70's Gibson Gospel and had a terrible time getting it apart. I steamed until it became obvious that I was going nowhere and was actually starting to release the neck block. At that point I decided to cut off the fingerboard extension. I never really felt like I was getting my steam needle into a neck pocket void and after pulling the neck extension, I saw that there wasn't any place for the needle to go, the entire joint was closed and tight. The joint and neck heel shoulders where also very heavily glued. I ended up drilling it out and was even more surprised to find a dovetail joint with parallel sides. I attached a PDF sketch.

I did some research, looking for images or others experiences and did run across one or two examples where the person was able to steam things apart without removing the fingerboard extension. If I ever take on one of these again, I'll saw off the fingerboard extension first thing. Far easier to fix that than some of the things that can happen from over steaming. I put it up in the neck re-set pages and did some whining about it there...good luck!

http://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/neck-re-set-gallery?id=217724...

[Paul Breen]

Oops, PDF attachment

[Chris Scott]

Hey Paul, thanks for your reply!

This one's a new J-45, built in '14 iirc. That style of dovetail you referenced is something I've never come across before, and seems like a cost-cutter at best - why else would anyone ditch such a tried and true method as a conventional dt? - based on your drawing it looks like little more than a slightly more (unnecessarily) complicated tenon, one that lacks the ability to snug the cheeks up TIGHT to the body...just seems like a total waste of time if you ask me.

I thought about cutting off the fb extention...I've had to do it on a number of occasions as well, and I agree that doing so can be far less of a headache than other possiblities that can (and do) arise from not seeing what's actually goin' on in there...truth is that I had no problem getting a decent amount of plunge into the cavity, so at this point I'm not ready to clip the extention...yet!

Thanks again for your response, and if you like I can pass on whatever I discover in there if it's out of the ordinary.

Chris

[Christopher Parker]

I've had trouble with removing the necks on older Gibsons and Guilds that have the wide rectangular heel. It seems to help if you shoot steam into the dovetail several times over the course of a day or two before attempting to remove the neck, rather than the usual routine of just steaming and forcing it out in one shot. This gives the moisture more time to penetrate and soften the glue. 

[Chris Scott]

Thanks Christopher, sounds like it might be a good thing to try, as these wide heels just don't like to come apart even on a good day...

[Dave Hanna]

Still looking for a better way to releace the dovetail on a Gibson J35/45/50?   Try a Milescraft 1303 Drive90plus or similiar small head 90 degree drive and a 1/4" hex shank drill bit.  Drill through the neck block by inserting the Drive90 and the bit through the sound hole.  You can feel the bit as it punches through the neck block. Don't drill into the neck heel, of course.

To apply steam, make a steam injector with a 1/4" nozzel from flexible tube and PVC pipe.  

I no longer dril through the finger board at all.  I should say, Gibsons are a bear to get apart.

[Roger Häggström]

Just  bought one. Thanks for the tip :-)

[Robbie Collins]

I use stainless steel knitting needles for steam injectors which are hollow and come in various sizes. I cut them with a plumbing tool for cutting copper pipe.

https://www.amazon.com/PIXNOR-Knitting-Needles-Pairs-Stainless/dp/B...