Steinberg

[Christian Johnson]

Anybody ever re-freted a Steinberg with graphite composite fingerboard?  I got one in that needs a refret, but I want to do my homework before I attempt (or not).

[Russell Vance]

I have not done a Steinberg - but, I have done a Bass with a composite fingerboard. The original frets came out with a lot of chipping (my preparation for fret removal and procedures generally ensures I have negligible chipping) and the replacement frets needed to have the tang diamonds ground away to insignificance before the frets would go in. I was using a Number 1 Press at the time and a standard fret would just sit there and fall over rather than go into the slot. Very nasty, never again. Somebody out there knows the secret to dealing with composite boards- it just ain't me. Anybody?
Russ.

[Christian Johnson]

Thanks, Russ. There's a guy in NY that has done a bunch of them, but I don't want to set myself up for problems and damaged reputation. Anyone please feel free to chime in here.

[Tim Mace]

I know not of what I speak but would probably epoxy and clamp frets in rather than hammer and still take the tangs off prior.Jus' chimin' in!!!I feel freeee!

[Grahame Myers]

From my relatively limited experiece of composites, my gut feeling tells me that it's too hard to work with hammered or pressed in frets. I'd maybe think about routing out the fretslots, till you have a fingerpress fit with the fretwire. And then wax the board ((essential for the epoxy cleanup afterwards), epoxy the frets in, and clamp them up. The last time I had to use the "Don Teeter" method was on a '65 Fender Mustang with a rotten rosewood 'board. The wood was just too porous to hold a tang, so I epoxyed them in. I used a wooden radiused sanding block with thin steel sheet between it and the frets to clamp up. I had to do it in three stages, due to the limited length of the radius block, but better than one at a time..
The worst parts about the Don Teeter method are the amount of prep work, and the cleanup afterwards. If you decide to use this method, be sure to charge accordingly: It takes a lot longer than a normal fretjob.

Grahame

[Pierre-Antoine Roiron]

I've made two Vigier refret in the last year (ebonol fingerboard), and appart from some chipping that needed some cosmetic repair, I did not have any trouble to refret the traditionnal way (hammer on + CA glue). Maybe I'm lucky? I did resaw a bit the fret slots though.

[Gregory Hites]

I would NOT USE epoxy to glue the new frets in. My day job is repairing aircraft composites for a major airline so I know this stuff. If you use epoxy, then good luck when it's time to refret again, or if something goes wrong during your fret job, it'll be hell trying to get 'em back out. Yes the fingerboard will be very chippy, but if you use enough heat with a soldering iron you should be able to minimize the damage. Leveling the fingerboard should take care of the rest. And yes you'll probably have to shave the tangs down if they don't seat well with a hammer. Use Cyano-glue (super thin) to wick down along each fret. Apply it to one half of the fret at a time while holding the fret in place with the butt-end of the hammer handle. You should be able to scrape off the glue residue after it dries with a razor blade, then steel wool the fingerboard.

best wishes,

littleguitargreg

[Kerry Krishna]

Christian, I have taken on repair work in the past that I KNEW was going to be a lot of trouble. Every single time , it has been a huge mistake. This job you are asking about doing here is exactly that. If you go through with it, you will gain insight into a job you will never have to do again. This is a no win situation for you. Phone the guy, tell him you are sorry, and give him the New York repair guys phone number.

[Doug T]

I worked with Lorenzo German for about 1/2 a year. I believe some of the early Kleins (which used a number of Steinberg's designs) he got in had a composite neck that were made differently from modern composite necks. They seemed to be more of a composite of powdered graphite rather than aligned fibers. Those necks I remember having a lot of chip out after frets were pulled, and putting in new ones could also chip. Seems the material was starting to become brittle as it aged. One was so bad it was sent out to be copied in rosewood by a CNC shop. This particular material also seemed to shrink, which I would not expect from a composite. If I remember correctly, he lubricated the tangs with a dry lubricant and then CA'd the frets in place. There was one neck he had saved from a job I did not get to see, that was a complete replace with one of the new rosewood necks. It had fatiqued so much that it probably had a curve of 3/8" over the length of it. Very old neck that he explained was probably one of the first composites made commercially. Good luck

[Christian Johnson]

Hey everyone, thanks so much for your ideas. Here's what I decided: After some soul-searching, I spoke with the customer today. I told him I decided to pass for now. He has a 5 month gig on a cruise ship starting 10/30, and I didn't want to risk wrecking his guitar. I spoke with many seasoned pros in the business, from Moses graphite to Peekamoose in NYC. My gut told me "Don't try it." So when the customer returns in 5 months, he'll bring the guitar back and we'll attempt, understanding that the results may be fair to midland. In the meantime, if anyone has a scrap phenolic or graphite fingerboard I can practice on, I'd be grateful. I'm doing a fret dress for now as best as can be accomplished. Thanks again for your help.