I bought a cheap Japanese Yamaha-copy 12-string guitar at a second hand store for $50. It had an over-bellied top, a bushing missing from one of the tuners, old strings and a misaligned nut. I hung it in the garage for months, planning to torture it as a repair experiment.
Then, as I researched repair methods for over-bellied tops, I discovered the JLD Bridge Doctor, a simple, mostly wood device easily installed inside the guitar that flattens the top and also acts as a soundpost,…
Added by Mark Riess on January 28, 2011 at 9:22pm — No Comments
I have an old Harmony that needs some work, but obviously is not worth putting any money into. I has a surprisingly good sound. I was considering the idea of practicing any future luthier skills I might have on it myself. However I have come to the conclusion that this is definitely not for me, at least not at this time in my life. Maybe someday in the future. I hate to just throw things away, especially since it does sound good. So I was hoping someone here on this forum might like to use…
ContinueAdded by Jay Peterson on January 27, 2011 at 7:44am — No Comments
I'm happy to announce that we've just completed a new Big Guitar Wall for the well-known and renowned archtop builder, Peter Hopkins. Here's a peek a the new Hopkins Guitar Wall located at http://hopkinsguitars.theguitarwall.com.
We've also just added the Great Wall of Walls where you can see over…
ContinueAdded by Jeffrey D Brown on December 22, 2010 at 10:27pm — No Comments
I have been doing guitar repair and an increasing amount of acoustic guitar building for the last twenty years. It has always been fun and exciting, never becoming "just a job" for me. Recently it hit me like a freight train: the nature of guitar repair is a losing proposition; the best repairs are invisible, therefore the only advertising that can possibly result would happen by a unique constellation of 1. a person who needs repair 2. must ask 3. a satisfied client who will produce a…
ContinueAdded by Robert Sherman on December 2, 2010 at 2:54pm — No Comments
Added by Bob Newby on November 17, 2010 at 2:25pm — No Comments
Added by LARRY KLOSE on November 15, 2010 at 4:07pm — No Comments
Added by Stephen P. Johnson on October 28, 2010 at 8:59pm — No Comments
Added by David John on September 22, 2010 at 5:34pm — No Comments
Maybe helpfull... Morris model "205" dated 05-73, made in Japan
The back is off. The neck-block appears to be just glued to the soundboard an sides...
Neck and neck-block are connected by 5 dowels (??? excuse my english).…
ContinueAdded by Bart van Weperen on September 4, 2010 at 8:06am — No Comments
Added by Jeffrey D Brown on August 7, 2010 at 10:30am — No Comments
Needed a place on the web to ,temporary, store these pics...
This is Mod E-3, nr: 0102124 by Guitarras Quiles.
Minor issue: the finisch in the corner where the neck meets the body (trebble side) has gone from transparent to "milky white": the finisch seems to be loose from the wood on that spot... (bad picture, I know)…
ContinueAdded by Bart van Weperen on July 31, 2010 at 5:46am — No Comments
I have been working on this guitar for the last few days. The problem is that the fingerboard has shrunk causing the fret ends to stick out. I have no problem dressing them. The problem is the finish. At every fret the laquer has popped off, leaving a small crater. My question is.. Should I touch the finish up before I dress the fret ends or after. My thoughts are that I will touch them up before, and level the finish while dressing the ends. Any advice would help.
Thanks
Added by Justin on May 2, 2010 at 10:16am — No Comments
Hello
I'm a first time poster to this forum, but have read it and Frank's blog for awhile now.
I have a question that seems like it could be addressed by you fine folks. I have a 1966 Martin D-18 that has had alot of work done to it. That I know of: the neck has been reset at least once, the bridge has been moved (if not replaced), the saddle has been shaved, and the frets have been dressed. When I got it the A string was extremely flat past the third fret. I changed to 3…
ContinueAdded by Aaron LaBoon on April 14, 2010 at 9:25am — No Comments
Spruce (Engelmann, Sitka?) top, Brazilian rosewood back & sides; ebony bridge & fretboard,
mahogany neck, heel is capped with laminates of redgum eucalyptus and rosewood, peghead veneered with rosewood; bindings of ebony & rosewood; rosette, position markers, peghead inlay, end and back trim are of 'found' abalone. Saddle and nut are bone. Scale = 24-13/16". Fret board is bound on each side with ebony.
Body is 14.5"…
ContinueAdded by Mark Riess on February 18, 2010 at 12:30pm — No Comments
I'm new, 1st time post....how many times has that phrase started sumpthin...
I have a Peavey Acoustic SD-9P, that needs the bridge replaced, I think. It is attached with Titebond, where do I start?
Added by Buddy Teague on February 17, 2010 at 12:32pm — No Comments
Added by Jeffrey D Brown on January 19, 2010 at 11:14pm — No Comments
Added by Mark Riess on December 23, 2009 at 9:01pm — No Comments
I've been restoring this instrument I made some 34 years ago. It started out with 4 strings and tapered violin pegs, but about 4 years ago I really wanted a bouzouki, and since I couldn't afford one, I decided to convert this (I used to call it a) dulcilyn....kind of a combo between a dulcimer and a mandolin. I…
Added by Mark Riess on December 23, 2009 at 8:30pm — No Comments
Added by Mark Riess on December 18, 2009 at 7:11pm — No Comments
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