CLR: Anything I need to know about this stuff for metal guitar parts?

[Kerry Krishna]

 Just a wondering. I generally do not polish metal parts, but use CLR in a ziplock bag and a cotton cloth afterwards. 

  Are there metals that I should not be using this stuff on?

[RETROROD]

I have never tried CLR on metal parts...Interesting topic. I would like to hear of results and caveats also.

[Paul Verticchio]

Hiya Kerry.

I've used CLR a very few times to clean metal parts....only the crummiest of the crummy parts.

I have not used it, however, on gold plated parts. I also haven't used it on un-plated (where it once was, it's now gone) zinc alloy pot metal parts. Here's my process schedule:

I immerse them in a Pyrex bowl filled w/CLR for a minute or longer, making sure to keep a visual on them while they're soaking.

One thing I do is, after I remove it from the CLR tank is immediately rinse it with cold running water and brush them with a soft nylon brush then quickly transfer it to a bowl containing a 'pudding' made with baking soda & water to neutralize any remaining corrosive chemicals. I let them bask in the pudding for about 5-10 minutes, rinse again & dry. As tempting as it may be...don't eat the pudding!!!!!

Hope that is helpful.

My favorite metal restoration process is to use white 3M "Scotch Brite' pads either dry, with cutting oil and/or Naptha.  They're the equivalent to 0000 steel wool in their cleaning capability but it leaves about 80% fewer fine swirl scratches. Those pads come in several abrasive grades and can be sourced through any pro auto body paint supply shop.  They're about $1.50 USD for a 6" x 9" pad. $1.00 @ in a box of 20.  They're also very useful for blending spot finishing jobs and fingerboard cleaning & fret polishing.  They're not the 'final step', but the second or third to the last. Highly recommended.  http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Pads-6-x-9/dp/B0006NFMO0

BTW: I just saw your photo-essay on FB about this. GOOD WORK, man!!!!!!!! Kudos

Have a good'un, buddy :)

[Robbie Collins]

I've used PT Blaster to clean, rinsed with naptha, washed w dish detergent, rinsed with clean water then rinsed in alcohol to quickly dry and prevent oxidation.

[Kerry Krishna]

Paul speaking of the crummiest of the crummy parts, this seems to cover what I am doing. After your post, I will not leave the machine heads submerged more than a few mins from here on in, and  the water rinsing thing is a great idea, and I will do that next time.

I DO have the 3M products sitting in the next room, but polishing these turds was not what I wanted to do. 

 It's funny... I have finally reached kind on an equilibrium with this particular guitar that I am working on right now, ( a '33 or later Quilt maple Indian Head decal'd one. These metal parts are off of it)

   For this axe, I will keep all the mismatched screws that the Owner installed over the last 80 years, and put them back on the guitar to keep it true to him, though I only heard a few stories of him from his 78 year old son who sold it to me.

     I never ever . polish these old guitars either, but am just interested in de-grunging them, hence I only use  mild water based cleaners and Naptha, and only rarely will try a lacquer repair.

 I have no idea why it is that I am getting a wee bit sentimental enough about this to not be tweaking the axe back up to Factory standards. This is what I have done in the past, but this guitar IS different to me in a few significant ways. 

 

[Kerry Krishna]

Robbie... http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Flyer-S2000-PT-Blaster/dp/B00005ME5Q

Now I am all Puzzleitated as only a Canadian CAN be... 

[Robbie Collins]

LOL. My bad...PB Blaster:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_box_hi?k=Pb+blaster

[Paul Verticchio]

"I have no idea why it is that I am getting a wee bit sentimental enough about this to not be tweaking the axe back up to Factory standards. This is what I have done in the past, but this guitar IS different to me in a few significant ways."

That's part of the mystique that drew us into the craft to begin with. I know what you're talking about.  It's some sort of odd reverence that certain instruments seem to draw out of us. It's all good :)

And like I said, the final products you show on FB are IMPRESSIVE. It also helps that most of these beauties have hardware made from REAL metal and not compressed pot metal. It's the OSB of metals ;) I'm going to use this method much more often now.

Nice work, man!!!! :)

[Kerry Krishna]

Coming from you Paul, that means a lot. Thank you so much... 

[Robbie Collins]

Kerry...there's a local guy selling a Kay 4-string banjo with the weird headstock. This is not an actual image. It has closed Klusons. I believe it's an original blue with resonator.  If this is something that interests you, search Middle Georgia Pawn on Facebook to get the phone number and ask for Shawn.

[Greg Woods]

I used CLR once to clean up a really grungy D***a single lever kitchen faucet. Stripped the chrome right off, but left the nickel plating underneath. Oh well, it's for the shop sink, cosmetics don't really matter. So I reassembled it, installed it, turned on the water and... wow, I just made a sprinkler! I guess I soaked it too long, and it ate right through the base metal inside of the faucet.

I probably would've been fine if I used a weaker concentration and/or less soaking time. It's been a few years, but I think I soaked it for a couple of hours.

[Robbie Collins]

Has anyone found a way to relic gold parts? I just soaked some new Gibson knob pointers in acetone overnight in case they had a finish over the gold. Now they're in a vinegar/salt solution but I'm not expecting much. Maybe fuming with an etchant?

[Greg Woods]

All you have to do to age gold-plated guitar parts is to play the guitar once or twice. :-) That stuff seems to wear off if you look at it sideways.

Seriously though, I would try a mild abrasive, like toothpaste, and polish the plating off by hand, only in the spots where one's hands would normally make contact.