Top crack and a heel lift

[Ron Moucka]

This is my first post on this forum, and I hope some of you can help me out. I corresponded with Frank on this problem, and he gave me some good advice. However, I'm still looking for some tips on how to go about it. I have a Martin DX1 that has a large top crack. Frank suggested filling the crack with glue and reinforcing the interior. My questions is can I simiply tape the crack shut from the inside to hold the glue and fill from the outside? If so, what type of glue would you all suggest? I would then go inside and reinforce with a couple of little 1" chips on the crack?

As shown in the pictures, this one also has a heel lift. I inderstand that Martin both bolts and glues this type of neck. Frank said to steam it to loosen the neck, and I've seen some excellent suggestions on this forum from fishinmusician and others on the best method to do this. On the inside block there's a little 2" square wood Martin patch with the serial number on it. Is this just hiding the bolt head? Do I just chisel that off to gain access to the bolt? It could be a little bolt tightening will solve my problem, although I doubt it, since there is no wiggle in the neck now.

Thanks again to Frank and everyone else. This is a great forum.

Ron Moucka

[Matt Haugen]

I can't comment on the top crack, but the heal problem is something I have dealt with before. First of all, use a razor blade to remove the wooden patch on the neck block. The tape used to attach these is a thick foam tape, so you can cut through the foam part without destroying the wooden patch and then you can reuse it. I believe a chisel would most likely crack the patch. With that removed you could try to tighten the bolt and if that works, simple loosen the bolt again and squeeze some glue in (hide glue) using a syringe and re-tighten.

[Ron Moucka]

thanks for the help. I probably would have destroyed the patch.

[William F.Eden]

Wy don't you glue a spruce splint in the top?????????

[Greg Mirken]

No, the crack should not be "filled"with glue or anything else. Bringing the guitar to proper humidity should close it right up Then work glue into the crack while monitoring penetration from inside. Ensure that the edges of the crack line up perfectly as the glue dries.

I seriously doubt you will be able to pull the neck tight without removing it. The glue in the joint has been allowed to creep and reharden. Looks like it got toasty..

[Charlie Hoffman]

This is all humidity related and the fix is to FIRST rehumidify the guitar. (Here in Minnesota we see several hundred of these every winter.) Put the guitar in a hard shell case with 2 (or 3 or 4) humidifiers (the "soap box" variety work well) for about 2 - 3 weeks. keep the humidifiers moist. In all liklihood the crack will close up. You can then glue it from the top (titebond works well). The essential part of the fix is to cleat the top from the inside. Small diamond shape cleats with the grain running about 45 degrees to the top grain are traditional and work well. this repair should be done IMMEDIATELY else the crack will get dirty and not hold glue all that well.

the loose heel is because the neck block shrank (is that how it is spelled?) and once that happened the neck came loose (likely once it was a bit loose the vibrations from playing the guitar may have exacerbated the problem). This is a glued mortoise and tenon joint and is not as physically strong as a traditional dovetail. We use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and remove the plate over the bolt hole. then the bolt can be easily tightened and all should be well.

[Ron Moucka]

And thanks to everyone who replied. Can't wait to get back to the guitar and try out all the suggestions. What a great forum! THANK YOU ALL !!