Resetting Martin neck with Richlite fingerboard

[Dave Richard]

Hi: with a Richlite fingerboard, is the fingerboard extension heated in the same way(and the same amount) as an ebony or rosewood board, in order to separate it from the top? The guitar is a 000C-16RGTE.

[Mark A. Kane]

JR, this stuff frets like a breeze! Just don't sand the surface! It's just a paper-like material that will sand through easily. I use ScotchBrite or the Norton equivalent (the grey stuff) for cleaning up the FB. As to fret size, I simply measure the tang thickness and use the same size as what you are removing. Martin uses a Titebond-type of glue, which I clean out with a micro-endmill in a Dremel tool. I use medium viscosity super glue for all frets, Jaws through #8, and hammer for the rest of the neck, in the normal manner.

[Robbie Collins]

Good info, Mark. Thanks!

[Dave Richard]

So, I did call Martin customer service today. I asked, 'To what temperature do you heat the Richlite, to separate it from the body?'.
The response was, 'We don't share that information'.

[RETROROD]

Nice....Not very friendly to the Luthier Community, are they?They want to keep the repairs "in-house" I guess.

I am simply saddened that we(as a nation) have come to a "time and place" that traditional raw materials cannot 'apparently' be used in American guitar manufacturing and hit a reasonable price point....I MEAN....Offshore....they still use "some species" of REAL wood...no?

It is sad when you need to consult a "countertop installer" about a guitar fretboard issue rather than a bonafide Luthier.....SAD...I say! Sad!

AND....good info Robbie!

[Mark A. Kane]

Just a follow-on, and not to defend Martin but their response makes perfect sense, because all instruments are different and in my experience absolutely come apart at different heat stages. Some take 4 minutes, others take 15. In addition, shop climates (temperatures, humidity) are different, heating times, which may be the most critical aspect, will necessarily be different, heating methodologies are many and varied (some might try a heat gun!! Who knows what these crazy repair folk will think is a good idea, at the time;)) Martin has no way of knowing these variables and they'd be crazy to publish a "factory specified" temp. If they did, the first guy to break out the propane torch, get the temp to the "factory spec" and ruin a fingerboard will surely blame it on Martin. My 175 degree figure comes from my own experience as well as conversations with other Martin repair geeks. As I pointed out earlier, I work the seam tool whilst working the heat, and in all cases do everything in my power to keep the heat as low as possible but still achieve separation. 

[Dave Richard]

So, here is my experience so far.
I obtained some samples of Richlite(5/16" thick) from my regional distributor. I milled it to 1/4". I glued three pieces, with Titebond original, to a 3/16" piece of spruce. Using my LMI heating blanket, and Stewmac contact thermometer, I ran tests to separate the Richlite from the spruce. I worked up to 350 degress F. , with no damage to the Richlite.

I then heated up and separated the fingerboard extension on the Martin 000C-16 in question. Went up to 350 degrees, as the glue doesn't seem to soften sufficiently (or at least quickly enough) below that temperature. All went well, no damage to the Richlite.

Now that I'm ready to steam apart the mortise/ tenon joint, I believe there are two holes(truss rod and neck bolt) through which steam can shoot into the guitar body. How have others plugged these holes to prevent this?

[Mark Pollock]

I'm not sure I would worry. I might stick a shop vac nozzle in there and suck that steam out, and maybe put some tape on the wood surfaces nears the holes. That seems safer than the hope that the plug would hold. 

Is this a bolt on? Is there glue in the joint? 

Mark

[Dave Richard]

It is a glued mortise & tenon, with a bolt. The bolt is now out( the neck is not loose).

A vacumn nozzle, and the tape, are good suggestions.