JDL Bridge System Question!

[Darren]

HI, I have a customers old Gibson acoustic. Im not sure what model it is, but it's a tad smaller than a dreadnaught. The top is pretty bellied but not so much as it is un-rescuable! I wanted to install a JDL system, to get the action down (instead of a neck reset) but the bridge is very narrow. The bridge pins are right up close at the back edge. The instructions recommend to install the screw hole just behind the pins in the centre, but there is not enough room. Does anybody have any experience with this type of problem.Im guessing that if I put the screwhole between the bridge pins, I will risk weakening the bridge plate and possibly put the bridge at risk of splitting! Any cunning ideas? Thanks for any help as always, I can post a pic if it helps.
Dar

[danove]

What about the bridge plate?
Is there enough of it to install in front of the pins?
- or maybe better - hidden under the bridge bone?

[Mike Kolb]

What about using the alternate "through-the-pin" model? JLD offers that model with hollow brass string pins, which eliminates the need for installing a screw at all. It's a little pricier (about $60 vs. $30, if memory serves) but it means there's no worry about where to install the screw. As an added benefit (particularly on an old Gibson acoustic) it's 100% reversible, which might mean something to the customer.

[Jeffrey L. Suits]

PM me, I'll give you Don Kendall's #, he's one of the inventors, the "D" in JLD.

CAVEAT: A JLD IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR A NECK RESET.

[Rob Mercure]

I agree with Mike's using the pin-hole version. This sounds like a valuable instrument and it's more than worth your customer's investment. Your labor time will actually be slightly shorter so you could knock of a little of your repair fee if you wanted to (can afford it) to somewhat offset the BD cost. A neck reset is the way to go if you've got the skill and your customer's got the cash but the BD may correct the problem sufficiently to convince your customer to further invest in an instrument that s/he's given up on.

Rob

[Ned Knepp]

Darren,
It sounds like you are talking about an LG Model from the "50s or earlier. They have fairly narrow bridges with a couple of inlay dots covering bolts on each side of the string holes. If you Google JLD Bridge system and look at their instructions for the "vintage pin installation" you can see the system Mike mentioned. It's probably the only choice you have unless you want to change the bridge to a belly bridge ( I wouldn't) .

Personally, I don't like the brass pin replacements. I don't like the look but I also worry about the break over angle on the bridge. The strings don't actually go down through the bridge anymore. They pass through the head of the brass pins, giving a straighter path to the saddle. I've heard some people say they think their guitar actually sounded better with them but, for me, they are just too unsightly to use. In your case, I don 't know of any other way to fit one.

All of this is assuming you have checked for loose braces and such too.

Ned

[Darren]

Guys,
that's some good advice. I appreciate it. My customer doesn't want the look of the Brass pins, but I'll see what he says, seeing that it is obvoiusly reversible! Maybe that's the way to go. A neck reset is beyond the scope of my skills at this point in my young career, but I have the contact details of some trusted repairers who I can recommend if my customer wishes to pursue it. (I must buy that Erlewine neck reset DVD for a start and practice on some crap!) I'll check out the vintage installation instructions, and I may get in touch for that number. Thanks for the offer! As ever, thanks for all the help! Till the next time!
Cheers,
Dar