Sanded through fingerboard inlays

[Michael S. Fields]

I posted this over at MyLesPaul.com, but would like to ask for advice here, too.

I'm refretting my 1978 Les Paul Custom and decided to get rid of the fingernail divots in the fingerboard. I bought the Stew Mac aluminum radius beam, but sanding free-hand didn't work out too well. So, I made the fixture pictured below, tried again, and now I have a perfect 12" radius. Lesson learned. Unfortunately, I sanded through several inlays. The fingerboard measures .2" thick at the nut and I still have enough depth in the fret slots for the fret tangs. Where do I go from here? Thanks, guys.

Mike Fields

[Frank Ford]

Welcome to the reality of inlaid fingerboards.

What to do now? - Dig out and replace inlay pieces as needed - that's about the only choice unless you're willing to live with the appearance as it is.

[Michael S. Fields]

Thanks for the reply, Frank. Actually, I was hoping that an expert would recommend that. I was afraid that the fingerboard was now too thin to fix. So, does anyone know of some good tutorials on how to do it on a finished guitar? I've found plenty on new, unmounted fingerboards. They don't even have to be free. I'm willing to pay for knowledgeable instruction. Thanks.

[Mike Kolb]

Interesting swivel-handle on the radius beam sander.... did you make that? 

[Michael S. Fields]

Hi, Mike. Yes, I made the handle from a piece of aluminum bar that I got at Lowe's. I cut a couple of pieces of pine to plug the center hole so I could screw it on as low as possible. It reduces the possibility of putting uneven pressure on the beam, both from side to side and front to back. When I was done sanding, I checked it with my Stew Mac radius gauge and it was dead perfect from end to end. Thanks.

[Mike Kolb]

Yep, the handle's a thoughtful addition. ...must file that away for future consideration :) 

[Thomas James]

Michael, This is not that hard of an inlay job. You can do it. Don't leave that tape on the guitar for very long - it will eat the finish and leave dimples.

[LARRY KLOSE]

I'll leave comments re inlay to others, but yes to removing the tape ASAP!  3M Green once didn't have a warning about use on lacquer but the newer version does.

Even a Post-it will eat finish and leave dimples.  Don't ask me how I know... .

Larry

[Michael S. Fields]

Hi, Thomas. No, I won't leave it on long. However, the tape is 3M's #2060 masking tape that's compatible with lacquer finishes, unlike the blue stuff. Thanks.

[Michael S. Fields]

Tape is now off. No need to take chances!

[Michael S. Fields]

After looking at it some more, I see that the cavities are still intact, just not as deep as before sanding. Maybe just cleaning them out will be enough. At worst, they just need a little more depth, which shouldn't be too difficult.

Does anyone know what kind of glue Gibson was using in 1978 to install these inlays? Best method to clean it out? Thanks, guys.

Mike Fields

[Thomas James]

Use a soldering iron behind a wet cloth to heat/steam and pry the inlays out. Increase the depth with a dremel, router base, and down spiral bit. Use black epoxy to seat the new inlays. Let them stand a bit proud and use your radius block to knock them down and reform them. It will look perfect if you take your time. Cheers, Tom

[Frank Ford]

I never think about the glue.  Since I'll be destroying and replacing inlay, I just get out the ol' Makita, chuck up a small drill bit and punch a bunch of holes through the pearl.  A bit of chiseling clears out everything. . .