Fixing loose volume knob

[mallen]

I'm trying to fix a  loose volume knob on my Burns guitar. There is no set screw. I assume it would pull off? I don't want to break it.

[Tom Krebs]

Slide a rag under the knob and wrap it around the shaft for a good hold to wiggle and pull.

[mallen]

Ok it pulled off. I checked the nut and its tight near the pick guard. The knob has a tight grip. So do pots wear out like this? It moves a little. And if I wanted to replace it what do I need to know? Are volume pots different than tone? I would needs to know some specs to order it.

[Tom Krebs]

If the pot itself is broken? Pull the pickguard, make notes on the connections, and remove the pot. Check the pot value either written on the unit or with a meter. Something like 250K, 500K, etc... You may need to consider the physical size of the pot as well as the threaded shaft length. Just match what you have.

Pots are pots adding capacitors to the circuit creates the tone control.

[mallen]

Great. Thanks for the info. I already put the pickguard back. I noticed on my other guitar (same make) they were a bit loose also. I might leave it for now. I wish there was some more info on Burns guitars. I think the only trouble I might have is getting the knob to fit tight.

[Tom Krebs]

If the knob is simply loose on the knurled shaft. Try a few wraps of Teflon tape. The ultra thin white stuff used in pluming and gas line threads.

[Paul Verticchio]

After reading the questions and replies (so far) I just can't seem to figure out the exact problem that you perceive.

A loose pot (meaning it rotates freely under the pickguard) should still work. If it doesn't, it's common for a lead wire to come loose or disconnected due to the over-rotation of the pot. In that case, all you need to do is resoder the connection.

Did you tighten the pot's nut to make it secure? Did you examine & test (with a DMM) all connections? Is the pot dead or is it scratchy? It could be one of several issues, not all of which require replacing the pot.

Could you post a picture of the exposed electronics AND give us a more detailed information on the issue at hand.

These kinds of things are hard to diagnose without [the] guitar in front of me [hereafter: WOTGIFOM]. I see that phrase used more & more often on this forum lately so we might as well have an acronym for it, eh?

Sorry if I seem a bit dense but I just can't figure out your exact problem as stated and these issues are such an exact science.

Best of luck(:

[mallen]

The pot itself is secure and the nut it tight. If you take off the knob, the straight piece sticking up wobbles.

[mallen]

Maybe this will give you a better idea.

[Paul Verticchio]

Yep, I agree w/Chad. Sounds like the pot is falling apart.

If you don't have Dan Erlewine's Guitar Repair book, now's a good time to invest in it. It has a super section on guitar electronics.

If you're experienced with a soldering iron, it's just a remove & replace fix.

Caveat: I've repaired more botched (amateur/hacked) soldering jobs than I care to remember. Folks can do a lot of damage to their instruments (and themselves) when you combine inexperience with an 850 degree F piece of electrified metal and molten lead.

If you don't have great soldering skills, either take it to a qualified tech or use your search engine to find PROFESSIONAL tips on how to properly solder. It'll open a whole new world of mod's & tweaks for you.

Practice on lots of "scrap" electronics and remember that prep time takes a lot longer than making the connection. Preparation is crucial to a well done soldering job.

When your skills are up to snuff, proceed to replace the pot ( or other offending pots).

BTW: these kinds of pot issues are fairly common. It's easy to find much better (than factory) pots from reputable suppliers. For general purposes, Allparts has a broad selection of fine quality pots. Antique electronics also offers PEC pots from Canada. They're inexpensive, built like a tank and a superb value.

Oh ya...... Burns guitars are WAY cool. Enjoy them (:

Best of luck on whichever path you choose.

[mallen]

Thanks. Yes I have some experience soldering. I wrote Burns and they said I need a 250k log pot, the shaft diameter is 6mm. I have done some reading and they are also noted 250K (a) for volume. Are all the shaft diameters the same? I looked and they don't give specs. Any reccommedations for some U.S. retailers?

[Grahame Myers]

Here you go: http://www.allparts.com/250K-Pots-s/19.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&a...
Allparts pots appear to be linear and not log, but thats OK. I find linear pots more natural in their response, and I always replace pots with the linear ones if I have to replace one as a repair. None of my customers has ever noticed the difference.
One caveat: CTS pots are the best you can buy, but as far as I'm aware, they have a 10mm shaft, which'll mean buying a new knob as well. Or you could buy the minipot versions, they work just the same, and are cheaper, not sure what diameter shaft they have, the ones I buy here in Germany (Japanese), have 8mm shafts. Phone Allparts and ask them about the shaft diameter, if you need one, they stock knobs too.

Grahame

[Russell Vance]

Hi Grahame, the Allparts pots are usually called "Audio" which means logarithmic - the linear pots are clearly identified as such ie: Linear.

The US made CTS posts have a different number of splines than Japanese origin pots on roughly the same diameter shaft for the splined shafts but the US solid shaft are a full 1/4 inch diameter shaft.
The knobs on this guitar are "push on" and are Japanese spline pattern (course spline). Use the mini pots which are made in Japan (or thereabouts).

At a pinch when I need to make old knobs fit new CTS pots I have an old CTS pot shaft which I heat up with a torch and then push into the bore to melt a new spline pattern into the old plastic knob bore. Works, but it is just a solution driven fix - I would recommend using new knobs if available. Good luck, Rusty.