Repacing a Gibson plastic bridge

[C Baker]

I recently acquired a '63 Gibson LGO and the plastic bridge needs to be replaced. I don't want to invest a lot of money in a $400 guitar so I've decided to do it myself. I have a few questions....

The guitar has a slight arch by the bridge as I'm told all Gibsons do but I'm not sure how much of it is supposed to be there. The braces and the bridge plate are all intact but there is some damage from the ball ends. I'm not sure how much of an arch to put on the bottom of the bridge. It appears that the arch is more pronounced when strung up, so do I fit it strung or unstrung and would an addition of a bridge plate patch affect this arch? The current bridge plate is spruce and spans almost the entire width of the guitar.

I plan on putting a 1/8th maple patch on this plate but only big enough to cover the size of the bridge.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Colin

[Frank Ford]

I think it's best to make a flat bottomed bridge and glue it to the top using a flat caul underneath the bridge plate and sufficient pressure to flatten everything and get a good glue joint.  I like the idea of adding that bit of tension in the area to reinforce against the pull of the strings.  I've yet to see a Gibson or Martin I'd want to do any other way.

[Paul Hostetter]

I am solidly with Frank (as usual) on that. BTW, I have a page about doing that procedure, perhaps you'll find it helpful.

 

PS: Test that spruce strap and see if it'll pop off—they often do. In that case, I wouldn't hesitate to make a more typical trapezoidal bridgeplate a bit larger than the bridge, especially in back, as it will help keep the top flat. LG-0s are ladder-braced and have more of a tendency to bulge than x-braced tops. If the strap seems to want to stay there, work with it as best you can. One of the primary jobs a bridgeplate does is hold the string balls and keep them from pulling through the top and catching on the bridge itself.

[Randall Curtis Bowman]

Mr. Hostetter, that is an absolutely beautiful explanation and repair that you have laid out. Thanks so much for such entertaining reading and instruction. I have followed Mr. Ford's work for several years now and enjoy his great instruction and tips as well. It's always great to see some old classic made better than new. Merry Christmas to all.  

[C Baker]

The spruce bridge plate won't pop off, so my next question is if a 1/8th patch is too thick?

My concern with gluing a flat bridge on was that I thought the top would split along the edges of the flat bridge when the tension was there. Making a flat bridge will be easier so this is good news. Thanks guys

[Jim Bancroft]

I got the same advise from Frank years ago, about gluing a flat bottom bridge on a bellied guitar. It will work fine, tops are flexible and it will help keep it flat.

Concerning the bridge plate, don't replace it, I'd just apply a thin maple veneer in the area where pin holes are worn. Just enough to cover the worn holes, approximately 5/16" to 3/8" wide, and 1/16" thick is sufficient.

 

Jim

[Gary Fried]

I have done quite a few of these and never had one that didn't have a prominent belly behind the bridge. I always glue a completely flat bridge to it and the top always flattens out nicely. It's always nice to see a customer react to the sound of the guitar after the work is done. This job transforms the sound quality of the guitar as well as adding some much needed strength to the top.