Cutting nut slots accurately

[Mark Pollock]

So, I'm sure this is a typical newb problem, but I can't seem to figure out the best approach.I couldn't find any obvious previous threads on this, and a web search seems fruitless.

 

I take a bone blank, shape it nicely to size, make sure it's a good fit, mark out my lines, get out my xacto razor saw, very carefully try to saw on the lines, and by the time I'm done rough filing the slots, my spacing is all screwed up. I suspect that the saw is wandering when I start it off, which is not surprising, since I am trying to saw through bone.

 

Any good tricks to start that saw off and stay true and centered every time? Clearly my thumbnail is not a precise enough tool for the job.

 

Thanks!

 

Mark

[ben]

Mark, i signed up because of this pic. laughing so loud.  got no tips on th topic though..

[Ned Knepp]

Well, Mark, You got me laughing... and that's not such a good thing. I'm coming off of a cold and coughing a LOT and, well, laughing uses the same muscles. 

 

I use files to mark the slot location and my fret files to cut the slot but I wanted to point out that I don't think much of those razor saw handles either. I tend to hold the back of the blade and let the handle ride up into my palm. I get better control, less side flex and don't feel like I need to push down nearly as hard. 

[Mark Pollock]

Sorry Ned, I hope you didn't have a saw in your mouth while you were coughing, that would be really tough to explain to the customer whose guitar you were working on.

 

I'm thinking that if I use the saw again, I'll ditch the handle and just use it like a file.

[Bart van Weperen]

Hi Mark,

 

whenever I need to saw exactly on the line, I use a tight fitting mitre box...

Best of luck!

Bart

 

PS. Great pic!

[Pierre-Antoine Roiron]

I do not start my grooves with a saw, rather the edge of a triangular file.

[Pierre-Antoine Roiron]

And I have the ruler too...

[Donald A. Fortune]

   I have a rule like the one that Mike shows here and it is the best thing to come down the pike since sliced bread,

use it all the time with the same method that Mike says. A better "Mouse trap" I havent seen yet....

Peace, Donald 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeffrey L. Suits]

Pull the saw backwards for the first few strokes.

 

Yes, the spacing rule is worth every penny!

[scott gannon]

Hey Mark. Saw Dan Erlewine use a japanese feather edge file to start the slots and go to nut files. Violin folks use them also. Google it .I think Lee Valley has some in stock. Play on

[LARRY KLOSE]

I always hold a razor saw on the sides with thumb and first finger with the back of the blade against my palm.  I learned this grip from the teacher of a Chinese cooking class I took--he used it withan Asian style cleaver.  It gives really good control and helps avoids wandering.  The handle can help with control also, and the 1 inch wide blades are easier to control, just like a chef's knife or Santoku knife.  This works either with a pull stroke or push stroke.

That said, I don;t use a razor saw to start nut slots.  I slot nuts starting with a "knife shaped" jeweler's file and then use the appropriate size nut file to finish.  If I'm using very light strings I might use the saw for the first string,  

I measure from the old nut if it's well spaced.  If not, I don't make enough nuts to justify buying the Stew Mac ruler so I use the Kimsey method.  If the math is scary, use a calculator.

http://www.bryankimsey.com/nuts/index.htm

Larry

 

[Todd Mylet]

I start all my nut slots with the same nut slotting file I'm going to use to cut the entire slot.  So for the low "E" on an acoustic, I'll usually start with an .052" file or so.  I use the Stew Mac string spacing ruler and make an accurate line for each string across the entire width of the shaped nut blank (usually a bit less than 1/4").  I then start the cut for a given slot attacking only the leading edge of the nut.  In other words, my slotting file is at a 30 or 40 degree angle with respects to the top surface of the nut.  This helps two ways.  First, since I'm not biting off much bone the file is less likely to wander.  Second, I am not immediately filing away the entire pencil line so I can watch my progress with each stroke of the file and correct any drift that begins to occur.  I gradually decrease the angle of the file with respects to the top surface of the nut and as I do so the slot begins to form across the entire width of the nut.  By paying attention as I go, I quickly end up with an accurate slot. 

[Chris Rochow]

I 1000% agree with Don... that ruler is the greatest thing since sliced bread!! WELL worth the money spent!!