blue masking tape on nitro lacquer problem

[Guavadude]

Well now I know not to use blue 3m masking tape on Nitro finish guitars but I didn't when I masked off some areas on the top and left the tape on overnight. Looks like the chemical in the tape has reacted with the Nitro.
This is in the finish, not just gum on top.

I've searched, lots of posts saying don't do it, can't find any saying what to do when you've screwed up. This is a 2012 Fender Select Tele so the finish is fairly new.

Will nitro compatible rubbing compound get this out? If so, any brand recommendations.

Then polish or buff? Specific recommendations are appreciated.

thanks

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Guavadude.

I too learned the lesson the hard way....identical to your situation.

I checked 3M's site and it specifically states it's not for use on lacquer. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Anyway, in my case, the damage looked worse than it really was. A hand rubbing with Meg's #7 removed the blemishes. I went ahead and rubbed out the entire body w/#7 to blend in the 'repair' [even though it was 95% undetectable] because it too was a new instrument.  It rubbed out and blended in easily.

I don't have a buffer but if I did, I would have given it a kiss with the wheel to bring it back to factory fresh.

Anyway, to summarize: rub it out with rubbing compound (if it's badly pitted) or hand glaze (if it's superficial) and finish the job with your buffer.  Basically, the last 2 steps in any finishing task.  And again, I think you'll be amazed that it looks MUCH worse than it really is.

Best of luck (-:

[Guavadude]

Hey Paul thanks.

I'm pretty bummed since it's a really nice guitar and it didn't take long for me to trash it.

I don't mind nicks and dents, it's just part of it if you really play them, but this just looks terrible.

I don't have a buffer either, can I do that step by hand or should I get one that goes in a drill?

What about polish for general scratches, any recommendations?

[Paul Verticchio]

You're very welcome G'dude and thanks for the kind words Hesh (:

Man, please don't beat yourself up over that.  It's all "part of a day's work".  It isn't the end of the world(:

I feel confident that you'll be able to do the repair without power equipment. 

Heck, whenever I get a "new" electric guitar (and that's rare) I take it completely apart and re-assemble it myself "just cuz'.  Everybody does that, right?

If the finish is ultra glossy or wet looking, I rub the entire body (and neck/headstock) down with M's# 7 to make it look & feel more like the factory finishes on guitars from the 50's & 60's. It's a subtle & uniform de-wetting of the top coat that I find personally appealing. When done, you can still comb you hair using the guitar's back as a "mirror"(;

I forgot to mention that if M's# 7 doesn't remove the blemish, try the process again using M's# 2 followed by a # 7 rub.

You'll be successful with this repair G'dude. Best of luck (-:

[Guavadude]

thanks Paul. I'll practice on another guitar with the Mag#7. If it looks like it needs buffing then I'll take it to my local shop. I'm trying to get to the point of working on my own guitars but I also appreciate the expertise that only comes with years of experience.

ok, since this is my first maple neck guitar with lacquer, what do you recommend to remove a little of the stickyness on the fingerboard? The neck actually feels great for about 30 min but then as it warms up, the action really slows down. Should I hit it with .0000 steel wool and then Mag#7? I don't want a raw wood feel, I just want it to stay consistent. ( I always hit the back of the necks with .0000)

thanks again to all for the help!!

[Paul Verticchio]

The neck.

The first thing I'd do (if you haven't done it) is to wipe the neck & FB with napha (lighter fluid).  That'll remove the residual buffing compound that other 'cleaners' can't touch.  Now you have a clean substrate.

I've been using (and shouting-out the virtues of) an ultra-fine 3M ScotchBright pad (the white ones available at pro auto body shops for about $1.50 @) instead of 0000 wool on finished surfaces.

It's a little less aggressive than 0000 wool.  I'd rub the FB down with it to de-gloss the FB.  It'll shine your frets too and a light final dressing of the frets with a good metal polish will make them look like jewelery.  Personally, I don't like 'finished' FB's for just that reason...especially Ric's.

If that doesn't get the neck feel where you want it, step down to 1000g wet/dry and work the areas between the frets perpendicular to the neck.  Glue some 1000g to some Popsicle sticks and you'll have good tools for the job.  Then, continue with the Mg'g rubs until satisfied.

Once done, enjoy that cool new guitar!!!!  (: (:

[Hesh Breakstone]

Paul's post is excellent and has the fix very well described too - Thanks Paul!

I read about the blue tape reacting with nitro about a year ago and removed my stash of blue tape from my shop just in case what they say about the 60's and later the 70's is true and I forget not to use it.... ;)

As a rule in my shop I use regular masking tape and will stick it to my shirt or something that makes it less tacky prior to use.  I also endeavor to not even leave the regular stuff on any longer than necessary and never overnight...

Guavadude it sounds to me like the damage may look far worse than it is and if you follow Paul's very good advice it may be undetectable once dealt with.  If you don't have a buffer many Luthiers do, not that we ever make mistakes mind you.... and require a buffer to fix out issues....  It's likely that a call or two to some local repair shops may get you some outsourced buffing for a reasonable fee.  I've never been able to reproduce the excellent results of a properly charged and dressed buffer set-up with anything else and I have tried as well.

My bet is that if you follow Paul's advice and finish up the repair with some buffing that your guitar will be as good as or better than new in terms of the finish. 

[Chris Rochow]

Best to always use "Drafting tape"... it is a low tack tape. I've never had any problem with it.   Most craft stores carry it.

[LARRY KLOSE]

And don't use Post-it notes on lacquer, either.  Several years ago I bought an archtop and the seller marked the bridge position with post-it notes before he de-tuned it and packed the bridge for shipping (which generally is a good idea when shipping an archie).  Each piece of the note stuck on the top left a little calling card.  I'd have rather re-set the bridge myself... .

Larry

 

[Pierre-Antoine Roiron]

I would go for a light #600 grit sanding on a cork pad, then a quick shoot of fresh nitro if the finish is too thin, then your usual buffing routine.