Just curious what you are all using to route saddle slots. Fairly recently, I got the saddle jig from StewMac and it's doing the job pretty well, but wonder what else folks are using.
I'm using the same StewMac saddle slot jig and it's "just OK". Oh, it gets the job done but it tends to be a bit sloppy. I think any jig that uses a Dremel has to be forgiven a certain amount of wandering that's inherent to the Dremel itself.
I remember FF made a beautiful heavy jig once, but can't seem to find reference to it... might be worth a search.
In the meantime, it seems the true Cadillac of saddle slot jigs is the Collins saddle mill, made by David Collins at Ann Arbor Guitars, although (according to the website) they're no longer being produced.
Here's a video and description that shows it in action at their shop.https://youtu.be/eY9_RRyxByg http://www.annarborguitars.com/styled-5/index.html
Classy unit, and probably cost some big bucks when it was available!
I also use the StewMac jig, courtesy of Hesh Breakstone at Anne Arbor Guitars. I use a Proxxon Professional rotary tool made in Germany. It has no slop and does a precise job. Search this forum and you'll find a long photo essay on how I adapted a Proxxon router base to the slot jig.
Here is my procedure (assuming new, shop made bridge with no slot):
1) Find the best location for the bridge on the guitar top taking into consideration best location for the saddle slot. This includes locating the bridge, slot and pins in the best location over the reinforcing plate. Makes no sense to locate the pin holes outside the reinforcing plate.
2) After preping the attachment area on the top, attach the unslotted bridge to the guitar with hot hide glue.
3) Apply green tape to the top of the bridge covering slot and pin hole locations
4) Mark the saddle slot location for correct intonation on the top of the bridge on the green tape. I like the green tape because it prevents tear out and makes pencil markings much easier to see. Use a very sharp #3 or #4 pencil. Double check all markings for slot and pin holes.
5) Use a jig with the longest possible router guide dimensions for best accuracy. A little jig sitting on top of the bridge will wobble regardless of the router or Dremel used. The guides for the jig should span the entire width of the top. Take a look at this link on my Godaddy secured read only website: http://www.moonlightluthiers.com/slottingjig.htm
Note: Most of the bone saddles from most sources are over sized so don't let that confuse you. You have to sand them down to fit correctly. You want a mild "friction fit".
Stu Mac with the Fordom motor and router attachment. Works 'ok', but I've learned to be careful and go slow to avoid wander.