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Your best source for the answer to this question is the Martin Service Dept.
Call or e-mail them.
Good luck.
I had no idea that Martin is using Richlite also....I had heard that Gibson has....
What say? A whole new learning curve for the "modern luthier".....?
Like Paul sez....call them....let THEM.... "school" US... about their modern materials/hardwood subsitutes!!!!
Richlite is similar to linoleum. The specs say temperature resistance to 350˚.
I've done a bunch of them; here are my observations. There is no epoxy involved in the fingerboard extension separation from the body. It's glued with Titebond, the same as the wood f/b's with the following rather important exception: do not under any circumstance heat Richlite over 175. The upper surface will bubble up and separate from the substrate; then you are into a new neck. There is no recovery. I've done it, so learn from my mistake. Typically, I use a heat lamp for maybe 3-4 minutes, monitoring the surface temp with a pyrometer. I work the lamp around to ensure even heating. I can usually work my seam separation tool into the joint in stages until I reach the 15th fret. The idea is to work just enough heat into the glue joint to soften it. You want, in no way, to overheat the Richlite. Take your time and be very careful with the heat!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I should have said Infrared Thermometer. Like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp...
First, thank you for sharing the detailed information on Richlite repairs. They are much appreciated as there isn't a lot of information available on this material. If anyone has experience with fretwork on this material, I would really appreciate it!
I do have a comment regarding IR surface temperature measurements in that one must be cautious about the accuracy of measurements taken with this type of device. Whereas one might expect 2 degrees C accuracy from a direct measurement taken by thermocouple, IR thermometers take measurements based on assumptions about surface emissivity, distance from sensor , etc. that can result in much less accurate measurements. That being said, they will provide a consistent measurement of relative temperature of any single given surface when those measurements are taken at a consistent distance and angle. The manufacturers will often cite thermocouple like accuracy but those measurements are taken under tightly controlled conditions (ex: calibrated blackbody in a lab environment).
One must be particularly cautious about taking measurements on small objects or surfaces with mixed materials as well as remembering that things do not have the same appearance in the visible and IR spectrums. For example - a common glass window is (mostly) transparent in the visible spectrum (what our eyes see) but reflects a large portion of the energy in the Long Wave IR spectrum (i.e. behave as a mirror).
The non-contact IR thermometers such as these are very useful devices and my intent is not to discourage use of them (and I do use them), only to advise of the limitations. When in doubt - double check the measurement by direct measurement with a thermometer or thermocouple of known accuracy.
Thanks for posting this info. It's always helpful when people chime in w/ technical knowledge outside the field others may not know.
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