Fingerboard Chipping when hammering Frets

[Ed Perkins]

This is my first Guitar and while hammering in the frets on an ebony fingerboard I am experiencing chipping on the fingerboard. This did not occur when I was practicing on a cocobolo test board.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to hammer the frets in without chipping the board.

[Jim Bancroft]

I've never encountered such a problem. Is the fret tang too wide for the slot? Beveling the top of the fret slot slightly may help, also filing the bottom of the fret tang similar to a knife edge may help(make a swipe or two on both sides of the tang). Otherwise, I don't know.

Jim

[Ed Perkins]

Thanks Jim,
I beleive what is happening is one end of the fret pops up as you hammer the other end, unfortunately the fingerboard is bound so beveling evenly may be difficult. At this point I am considering an arbor press but was wondering if oil or something of that sort may work - I purchased the fingerboard blank from lmii.

[Jim Bancroft]

I wouldn't use oil. Glue may help as a lubricant, hot hide glue or titebond.
I was assuming this was a new fretboard, but maybe not?
When I've had an occational fret end that wants to pop up, I clamp the end down and wick in some superglue. That will hold them down.
Ok, I understand, this is a new fretboard. I normally have the problem with loose fret ends with refrets, not new fret slots. Sounds like the slots may be too large. Is the fingerboard radiused and also the frets?
Jim

[Mac Walker]

The best way to install frets using a hammering method is to make sure the radius of the fretwire is slightly smaller than that the fingerboard. As opposed to using a press where it should match exactly.

That is, if your radius is 12", over bend the wire so that it is smaller than 12". If you set the fretwire section on the board it will arch up in the middle relative to the radius of the fingerboard. I try to target a clearance equal to the tang depth between the center of the surface of the fingerboard and the bottom of the tang.

Then hammer in the center, slowly working your way (back and forth) to the outer ends. Work in a symmetric pattern, that is, whatever distance you go from the center, make sure you work your way back to the same distance from center on the other side.

This will help prevent the opposite end from pulling out, as you described, since the center is pressed in before the ends. It is important however not to make the radius of the wire too small.

I recently purchased a cheap chinese drill press and plan on buying or making a fret press caul, as it is a royal pain to hammer the frets without the risk of damaging the frets or fingerboard. I use stainless wire, which is even more difficult to bend, especially without a wire bender.

Stew-Mac also makes a hand operated press, kind of like locking pliers with a caul built into it.

BTW, what kind of ebony are you using (Macassar, Madagascar, African, etc.)?

Hope this helps....

[Russell Vance]

Ed, Most of my fingerboards are Madagascar ebony and I use a press and caul arrangement with no drama. But, really dry ebony chips readily especially when de-fretting. The hammering of frets, especially if not over-radiused may cause the fret tang to slightly withdraw from the slot when the other end is hammered in and I can see that there is a possibility that this will chip out around that area. Otherwize I'm at a loss - an engineering press and cauls from StewMac will help.

Superglue is the go for gluing the chip back in place, otherwize use ebony dust with superglue to fill the chip out somewhat proud and sand down till it's flat. Rusty.

[Donald A. Fortune]

hey ED -- I bet a dollar to a doughnut that if you go to frets.com you will get a verry good answer to your question and if you cant find an answer there then it is my openion thast there isnt an answer on the planet-- good luck and best to you
Donald

[Ed Perkins]

Thanks Gentlemen,

Thanks for the responses. The Frets have been radiused a little more than the board (new board with 9" radius). However
the book I have been using says I should hammer from the outer edges to the center (just the opposite of what Mac was saying). I did bite the bullet and order the arbor press from stewmac.

I appreciate the responses and may need information and help when it comes to finishing the guitar.

Thanks,
Ed

[Jim Bancroft]

I always hammer the frets starting at the edge of the fingerboard and work across. I've never used an arbor press but hope it helps.
Basically on a new fingerboard you shouldn't have a problems with chipping or the frets ends coming up if the frets closely match the fretboard radius, the fret slots are cut deep enough, and the fret tang matches the slot. A fret tang expander can help too, to increase tang width.
I have used glue(titebond or hot hide glue) when hammering in frets for refrets but not for new fret jobs.
I'm certainly not a fretting expert but that has been my experience.

Jim