Blush Eraser?

[Thomas James]

I am not a finish guy. I only do touch-ups.  I've got some lightly 'fogged' finish on a top after a neck reset. I assume blush eraser is what I need? Any tips on product choice and application would be much appreciated. Thanks for any advice!

[Greg Mirken]

Try barely dampening a piece of blue shop towel or lint-free rag with alcohol. Lightly swipe once over the area like you were French polishing. Unless the finish is very thick the blush usually disappears.

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Tom, Check with your local paint store to see if they carry lacquer retarder. I use Sunnyside Universal Retarder myself. It works like a champ. Blush disappears in seconds but let it sit untouched for 24 hours as it takes time for the finish to cure again.

[Brady Anderson]

Hi Tom,

If the "blush" you are talking about is the whitish coat caused by the steam escaping from under the fingerboard, I have found that a light buffing with "Perfect-it-II" or another fine rubbing compound takes it off with little effort and less risk of messing up the finish with solvents.  You didn't say what kind of guitar or finish you are dealing with.  Is it Lacquer or Poly.  Lacquer retarder or blush remover will have no effect on Poly or Acrylic finishes. 

[Greg Mirken]

A fix that takes one minute is preferable to one that takes 24 hours (and there's a danger of marking lacquer that has been softened with retarder for longer than one day). In using the alcohol trick for 20 years or so, the only times it won't completely eliminate the blush from steam involve very thick lacquer (e.g. Guild). Try alcohol first before bringing out the big guns.

[Hesh Breakstone]

I like this idea too and wanna try it.  What kind of Alcohol do you use Greg (for the blush repair.... ;))

Thanks too - great tip!

[Greg Mirken]

Hesh, I use denatured alcohol from the paint store. As Gary Fried noted a light touch is needed, and the pad needs to be just damp enough to leave a wet film. I make one swipe and wait for the sheen to disappear before thinking about another pass. I try to avoid having to do any rubout.

[Hesh Breakstone]

Thanks Greg - I'll have to try this, sounds like a great solution.

[Hesh Breakstone]

Mequair's Fine Cut Cleaner works very well, is available at lots of places (auto parts stores and auto sections of other stores) and is pretty safe in terms of not doing any harm.

[Frank Ford]

Greg's alcohol trick works like magic - if  you haven't tried it you will be surprised.

I was surprised when I saw him do it, and have repeated that trick often ever since - thanks, Greg!

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Looks like my lacquer retarder only gets used for spraying finishes. My favorite part about this forum is I'm always learning something new. Alcohol, and I thought you only drank that stuff................

[Gary Fried]

Yes the alcohol trick works great. Just don't use much pressure when swiping across the finish. Depending on the condition of the rest of the guitar, I will sometimes buff the finish after with some fine buffing rouge.

[Mark Pollock]

For great alcohol, go to Sherwin Williams. They have Sure-Line Denatured alcohol in the green can, which is the best, cleanest stuff out there, according to the guys at shellac.net. I've been very happy with it myself. Wiped out a few blushes with it myself.