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Been working my way through this one for a few months but I've finally completed the headstock, and I guess I'm just feeling like sharing it. It's been a challenging restoration so far as I'm trying to be as accurate dimensionally as possible to the original, even though it was MIA when I got the guitar. Next step is to fit the dovetail which leads me to a question. Does anybody have an example, or know off the top of their head, the height that the neck should sit proud of the top surface at the heel? Measured from top to bottom of the binding would be best. Anyhow here's a shot from today.

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Oh and here's the back side.

You are making a very nice job of the neck Eric. I realy don't know what you are trying to ask  but the bare neck should be flush with the top  and then the fret board on top of that. I am shure you know that to get a proper rise to the bridge you have to take off some wood  down the heal of the neck???????????????????.Bill.........

Bill, this is a Super 400, an archtop, so the neck sits proud of the body and a filler runs under the fretboard extension. I think the filler ends up about 5/8" thick but I do not build archtops so I'm not sure. That's the information That I seek.

 Eric, it looks like you are doing a terrific job! 

  I am not sure you will get the info you want from this site though. If I were you I would be going to one of the many Gibson sites, and zeroing in on a section that would be able to provide you with exact dimensions.  

Just talked to the owner and he measured a couple others he owns for me. Seems to be anywhere from 3/8" up to 9/16" depending on the vintage. I'm probably being too anal about this issue. I should just go with my instincts and set it where it looks right. I think thats what the guys in the factory did originally any way.

Eric, is this not predicated by the desired bridge height? 

Actually in a way yes and in a way no. If you are setting the neck heel angle to 90 degrees to the plane of the fretboard, yes the height is set by the bridge, but if you allow a variation of the heel angle then the height must be set first to establish the correct angle at the heel.

 Eric this is what I have done in the past I will take a piece of wood the same or there abouts the length of the neck from the dove tail to  the nut and deep enouff at the heal end that i can raze it and lower it .I would make a 3 degree cut on the dove T. end  and take a strait eadge lay it along the top of the board and find out were I have to  bring the board up  in order to hit the bridge in the right place .  Then measure the weage you need to sit under the fret board off the strait eadge .P.S  as you will know that each Instrument will be a little different and you may have to change the 3 deg.cut   I hope this is as clear as mudd. Bill................

I can't be of any help with the info that you seek, Eric but I simply wanted to comment on what a great job you are doing - good going!

Here's an update as I've rough fit the neck dovetail. I'm still a bit proud of the body (13/16" at this point) but I will need to increase the projection angle a tad so it will settle in lower when I do so. Next I'm going to shape the neck shaft and heel.

By the way, anybody in the market for a Super 400 square neck lap steel? I think I know where there may be one.

Eric by the way I beleve I would have started at the heal end first before I did all that work on the head. OH well just my way of doing things I guess Bill.................

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