Yamaha FG-230 12 string bridge plate

[Lee Gendvilas]

I now have a a Yamaha FG-230 12 string that was donated to my school district and given to me to use for my general/vocal/pre-K music classes. It needs a little work done. After looking at the bridge plate, I am posting to get opinions on the best course of action to take. The bridge plate has a small section that has separated from the pins closest to end pin (see pics). Should I glue it back on and clean it up and call it done or ? Also, I'm wondering why the gauze is on the joints of the braces.

 

Looking forward to the comments!

[Grahame Myers]

I'll go with Tims advise too, but I'd be inclined to make the new bridge plate bigger, so that the back row of pins also goes through the bridge plate, and also a bit thicker. With a 12-String it's never a bad idea to beef the bridge plate up a bit when you have to replace it anyway: It goes a long way towards postponing the dreaded "12-string belly" that they all develop after a number of years. The worst part of the whole job is getting the old bridge plate out without damaging the top or the finish, the rest is simple using the right clamps and care.

[Lee Gendvilas]

Hello again Grahame. This will be my first attempt at removing a bridge plate. Will I be able to remove it while the bridge is on or should the bridge come off also? I read an previous posting here about using a damp rag prior to heating the plate then removing it. It sounds like a great way to remove the plate without too much hassle. BTW, the bride is starting to rotate, slightly. I have a JDL bridge doctor and am considering installing it. Looking forward to your reply.

[Grahame Myers]

I've thought about it, and maybe Paul Verticchio has the better idea, taking into account that you've never done this job before. Read what Frank Ford has to say about the job :

www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/NewBri... ,

and then decide if it's going to be worth the hassle. If it only has a slight belly, the bridge doctor could be all you need, after you've glued the broken piece back on. If you do decide to remove the bridge plate, remove the bridge first, as it makes it easier to get heat into the bridge plate without damaging the finish or cracking the top (don't ask me how I know..)

LMII has a heating blanket extra for bridge plates, which I'll probably buy the next time I get a job in where I have to remove a bridge plate: Until now I've used a system similar to the one shown in Franks article, but it's a bit fiddly getting the hot plate in and out without burning the sound hole edges or your fingers (almost certainly due to my natural clumsiness in such things, the blisters on my fingers healed quite quickly though...)

If you do decide to remove the bridge plate, do an upgrade and replace it with a bigger and thicker one, with a 12'er it's never a bad idea to beef it up a bit.

And last but not least, what Paul said about using a 12'er for classroom work is worth consideration: Leo Kottke said once that a 12-string is never really in tune, at least not for long :-)

Just noticed: where has Tims reply disappeared to? Weird...

[Lee Gendvilas]

Thanks for the info Grahame. I've looked at the link, looked at how much it's starting to belly, measured the height of the bridge (5/16), and checked to see neck angle to the bridge. I also read Frank's article on bridge plate overlay. I'm thinking of glueing the broken piece back on and doing a maple overlay to strengthen it until I have removed a few bridge plates. Then I'll take your advice and replace the plate with a bigger/thicker one. I'm also going install the bridge doctor. Does this sound logical to you?

And, as far as using the 12 in the classroom, I already have a 6 string I use. The 12 is going to be more of a show and tell item than using on an everyday basis. Also, I noticed Tim's reply disappeared into...somewhere.

[Tim Mace]

Grahame, I "often" remove my suggestion or comment if I feel it's getting in the way of  better experienced ones.If that's too wiered I think the word wierd is weird or am I wired? I hope Frank didn't do a complete software overhaul due to your confusion!!!!Blahahahaha

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul Verticchio]

If this issue isn't causing a problem with action height or intonation, I'd glue the broken section back on and call it a day. The important front of the rear plate is intact and will allow the ball ends to seat properly against it.

As I recall, those Yammies had a thick bridge.  You shouldn't have additional structural issues, again, presuming that the gtr is in an otherwise serviceable condition.

If you want to invest in an upgrade, I'd definitely start with the tuners.

Then, I'd trade the 12 string for a 6 string of equal value. It'll make your life in the classroom so much easier when tuning (:

Best of luck Lee (:

[John]

I'd glue that piece back put on light gauge strings and keep an eye on it. The guitar is probably in it's forties so if it's made it this far ...gauze is there to strengthen the joint.