New shop space!! What to do?

[Mark A. Kane]

After 17 years running my business in a 288 sq. ft. closet, I'm moving to a proper shop space of 800 sq. ft. that I'm free to configure however I like. It has a roll up door in the back and a loading dock so I have easy access. I own all the usual stuff like purpose built benches, stationary tools (band saw, table saw, drill press) lots of rollaway tool boxes, a big dust collector and a really big wood mill (Grizzly 9959,1300 lbs). I have lots of ideas about things I'd like to do, but I'd like suggestions for things I'm not thinking of, or "wish list" items or systems that I should consider including while I have the chance. 

Thanks guys and gals!

[Hesh Breakstone]

Sounds like a great space - congrats Mark!

I always suggest to folks who are setting up a new shop for Lutherie to give some thought to dealing with what ever relative humidity issues one may have in their respective climate and space.  You didn't mention if your focus is repair or building nonetheless having a stable RH solution can be pretty important for either.

By my math you now have more than twice the space so how does it feel to be "free range Mark?" ;)

[Mark Pollock]

Power and lighting. Hesh is right about humidity, but I would also say that plenty of power (120 and 240) and lots and lots of lighting will never be unappreciated. Putting in extra circuits and making sure you have adequate ground fault and arc fault protection will make life much easier.

Of course, if you are leasing, then simply providing yourself with well laid out extension cords will make life easier.

Also, a flame proof cabinet. Can't go wrong with those.

[Thomas James]

I am slowly setting up my new basement and plan to make some temp walls with light studs and heavy mil clear plastic to create an easy to reconfigure dust area. I saw this in another shop and thought it was a good idea.

[Kerry Krishna]

Mark, Get a few huge pieces of paper, put a grid on them, and start messing around with were tools should be going. If it is manageable, once you have a 'working plan for were everything is going to go, mark  the floor with the footprints of the various tools, and see if moving around in the space is at all feasible.

I have currently been in my shop for 8 years, and in that time,I have 100% reconfigured my shop 3 separate times. In my case, it was getting new large floor tools that made me do this work.  Before you move in, I would get a dependable hygrometer , and measure the humidity in the shop for a few days.

When I first got here, I had to disconnect/block the heating ducts coming in, and easily spent between $800 and $1100 on stuff like caulking, outside door seals, paint, overhead florescent lights, electrical boxes, and other materials to make the shop as airtight and 'useable' as I could.

 I also had to buy several NOMA electric rads (which work a dream too in case you are wondering!)

. I am totally responsible for all my heat and my humidity level too, and after all the work on that one thing was finished, I did the paper grid map, then I knew exactly were all the electrical outlets had to be placed, and were to also place all the overhead florescent lights. I keep adding on to electrical after all these years too...After that, (and paining the plywood raised subfloor),  I started moving shop tools in.

How about a few pictures measurements of your shop?   

[Frank Ford]

I've been rearranging my shop, both at Gryphon and at home continuously since 1971, and after  a dozen complete reconfigurations, about all I can say for sure is that for me the best thing is to plan for the certainty that wherever I place things is somewhat temporary.

Recently, in 1995 I moved everything out, took my 18'x18' garage down to the studs and placed as many electric outlets as I could on all the walls and ceiling, including 220 volt ones in the ceiling for drops to tools.  All lighting fixtures plug into ceiling outlets, which are switched at the wall. I plumbed the compressed air line with rubber hose everywhere so I could simply cut it and plug in barb fittings in wherever I need them.

[nathan clark]

Frank has some awesome advice. I would add: Put your wall outlets 4' up from the floor. Group the benches and power tools you use most together with walk ways that are 22" to 30" wide. Put your specialty tools used for the same job in the same removable drawer that you can take out of the chest of drawers and simply place on the bench.

[Hesh Breakstone]

If you are redoing your electrical here is something that I did in my shop that may be helpful to ya.

My overhead lights are on a separate circuit from the 20A circuits that I use for my wall outlets.  The advantage of this, since I am in a basement with no windows.... is that if a tool pops a breaker I still have my lights.  Obviously this is a safety measure that I hope to never have to use but I'm glad that I wired my shop this way.

Also give some thought to fire extinguishers (quality, rechargeable ones), a first aid kit w/an eye wash ability and a tourniquet.... if you ever need one.  I also rigged my shop with a way to call for help too if I ever can't get off the floor....  Not trying to be negative here but safety is important and a little thought in the beginning can pay off big time if you ever need these things.

In addition I have a 100 CFM exhaust fan located over a bench that I use when pore filling with epoxy or simply using stinky stuff in general.  Not a solution for spraying nitro since this is not an explosion proof fan but an easy way to clear the air quickly when I don't want to breath, all day long, what ever I may have stunk the place up with....

[William F.Eden]

Speaking of wireing a shop for safety I have a shutoff switch at the door to my shop that shuts off every thing

 when I leave so I never have to worry what I may have left on..Bill..........

[nathan clark]

Hey Hesh, What's the make and model of the exhaust fan?  Is it built into the wall or is it a vent hood like over a kitchen stove, or...?

[nathan clark]

I would also suggest installing a couple of huge windows on your North-facing wall, then locate your main workbench(s) near that window.  That light is never too warm or harsh and generally very consistent in color.  Great for doing detailed work and photography.

[Robbie Collins]

When I ran electrical in my shop, I wired on/off switches at the beginning of each tool and bench circuit and placed them 6' up. When I exit the shop I turn all these circuits off. I did it then because I had rugrats but I'm still glad to have the switches. Gives me peace of mind and cuts off any residual current draw to save energy. Just make sure you leave the circuit that powers your chargers on.

BTW, I use my iPad to store repair books, diagrams, manuals & schematics. You can buy outlets with built-in USB charger ports for a few dollars more.

Also, use the 8' flourescent fixtures for general illumination and LEDs for task lighting if possible. The 8-footers tend to be more efficient and robust. Digital ballasts last longer than magnetic ones. LEDs are expensive but save you lots of money over time. I hate paying the utilities a dollar more than necessay!

[Mark A. Kane]

Thanks for all the replies, folks! You've given me plenty of food for thought. I purchased 4 mobile bases for various tools so I can move the furniture around at will. I'll post pics when things are settled. Thanks again for all the suggestions.