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Ooooooooooooooooh, boy...
I have no firsthand experience with one of these, but be prepared for AMG & AMJ. (Asian Mystery Glue, Asian Mystery Joint).
Consider a saw-off, conversion to bolt-on.
No first hand experience with the brand, but if I'm unsure about the neck joint I'll still treat it like a dovetail until I find out differently.
I'll basically remove the next fret above the body joint and drill a small hole and probe for the back side of the dovetail, and will even inject some steam to see if anything gives. If that doesn't work then I may partially saw through the body/neck joint and apply a drywall screw and glue or completely saw off neck and bolt and glue it back on.
Jim
Hi Tom, I know I am a few years late, but I am a big fan of these Aspen guitars. I have a couple of these D-28 models. Haven't had to reset the neck, but I had to reglue a bridge and replace a bridge plate. Not HHG, but it is heat sensative, similar to Titebond. I just pulled the neck from an Aspen D-18, It had a traditional dovetail with a titebond original type glue, it steamed right out. I should also add, that I have only dealt with the 1970's era Aspens made in Japan. In the 80's operations were moved to (I believe) Korea. These are of questionable quality.
Matt, I am so glad you poppedein here! I was just going to jump in and say that it HAD to be a dowel'd neck! You saved me Bucko!
Still could be doweled and there can be a huge difference between Japanese built and Korean built instruments.
There is always what we folks here in Michigan generously call a California reset..... ;) Wonder if the good folks of California would prefer to attribute this method back at Michigan....
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